Frances Cottrell visits Morgan M restaurant in Clerkenwell.

The new site of Islington’s famous French eaterie, Morgan M, has recently arrived in The City. Although tucked away opposite Smithfields Market it isn’t at risk of being ‘happened upon’ but if the reviews of the Islington site are to be believed, it is certainly worth seeking out.

Morgan M’s restaurant is divided into a more formal space upstairs whilst downstairs is much more relaxed and serves a selection of small plates such as Foie Gras, Snails, Cheeses etc.

My guest and I ate in the main restaurant, and although it was a chilly Tuesday evening early in the year, it was an exceptionally quiet dining room and would benefit from an injection of atmosphere.

Additionally the service was a little on the formal side, but still very good, but it’s the food you go to Morgan M’s for.

Morgan Meunier delivers fine, modern French cuisine and has already built up a following in London for his creativity and consistency.

So, it is with great anticipation that we lay our eyes on the menu, which delivers a fantastic selection including two six-course tasting menus (Winter and Garden) and an a la carte selection rich in gutsy, warming dishes each with an element of flair.

We both selected the Winter Menu with matching wines (there’s a great selection, from the French biased list) at a very reasonable £80.

To start the Cream of Mojette Beans, Lemon Confit and Pesto was light, smooth and just enough to start proceedings. It was followed by one of the stars of the menu, the Crayfish and lobster Cannelloni.

The dish was an absolute triumph. Perfectly balanced seafood flavours held their own against the pasta, and the result was an unctuous plate of food, as pretty as it was delicious.

Other highlights were perfectly cooked Seabass with a crunchy skin and flaky, moist meat. Mains were a choice of Pheasant or Venison and both delivered pretty incredible plates.

The Pheasant was served with pear, a liver crouton and bread sauce and was a wonderfully inventive take on a traditional winter dish (although I have a criticism that Foie Gras was present in the dish, without being listed on the menu).

The Venison with quince puree and Sauce Grand Veneur presented a silky, robust dish with the game moist and perfectly cooked. Both seemed to epitomise Morgan M’s style of wonderfully treated ingredients presented beautifully and with a lightness of touch which elevates them above many of the capital’s French restaurants.

Desserts at Morgan M included a passion fruit soufflé and a dark chocolate Moelleux served with magnificent dessert wines (Moscato d’Asti 2010, Bera Canelli and Maury, Domaine Mas Amiel) and punctuated the meal on a pretty impressive note.

It’s clear to see that Meunier is a very talented chef, and the theatre and artistry which went into each dish was gladly received. The dining room would undeniably benefit from some warmth and a bit more atmosphere, but for a midweek supper or business meeting this is certainly one of the area’s best finds.

Read our guide to the best restaurants in Clerkenwell.

 

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