*Primo closed in the summer of 2013*
Located in Covent Garden, Primo Restaurant is a new Italian restaurant that has taken over the space once occupied by Incognico on Shaftesbury Avenue.
In Italian, Primo means ‘first’ and their mission is to ‘serve the finest Italian cuisine in London’. They are also on the forefront of the resurrection of the comfort food ‘Pollo Sorpresa’ or Chicken Kiev.
Seeing far too many bland supermarket versions has not only cheapened the dish but allowed the general public to forget how wonderful it can actually taste. After my meal to the restaurant, I can see that Primo London is passionate about its revival, and for good reason; their version is divine.
I visited Primo restaurant on a cold and rainy evening (I’m starting to see a trend with my review nights…or maybe I just haven’t come to terms with London weather yet) so I was happy to be greeted by a friendly doorman and warm fire heaters in the entrance.
The front of Primo restaurant is all glass, allowing passers-by to peak into the Cicchetti bar and see the chefs at work in the exposed front cooking space. The interior is surprisingly bright, perhaps to allow patrons to admire the many hanging paintings by Ronnie Wood (of The Rolling Stones).
It’s a relatively small dining space but set up in a way that allows your table to feel intimate, whether you’re a party of 2 or 10. As my guest and I decide on starters, we are treated to a delicious olive, bruschetta and home-made bread platter.
We share the Carpaccio of Beef and Avocado and Prawn cocktail to start before moving onto our anticipated mains that included a roasted Chilean Sea Bass and the infamous Chicken Kiev – simply labelled as ‘breaded free range chicken’ on the menu.
The Sea Bass is buttery and delicious but the Kiev is the absolute stand-out. Served on a bed of spinach and chicken jus, the organic chicken is perfectly cooked, boneless and coated by a crispy breading. I’m told that night after night, it is by far the most popular dish on the menu, and we see why. If the goal is to reinvigorate this classic dish, Primo restaurant has done it.
Dinner is rounded off by a traditional dessert menu of Tiramisu and Profiteroles that are creatively presented and full of flavour. Overall, an incredibly indulgent meal, just as fine Italian dining should be.
In addition to the main dining room, there is space at their Cicchetti bar in the front to share some light tapas and a few glasses of Italian wine (bottles started at £20.50). There’s also a private dining room on the lower level that can be booked for parties up to 20 guests… only if you’re ready to give away this Chicken Kiev secret to the masses.
No comment