A brisk trot from Sir Christopher Wren’s architectural masterpiece, St Paul’s Cathedral, is restaurateur Jamie Barber’s third Hush Brasserie. In addition to sites in Mayfair and Holborn, Hush St Paul’s, located at 1 Ludgate Hill, is a slick, industrial-modernist marvel.
The 3,500 sq ft dining area at Hush Brasserie St Paul’s is positioned in between a wrap-around bar and the open-plan kitchen, making it both intimate and informal. Upon presentation of an impressive cocktail list, we selected the Passion Martini and the St Paul’s 75.
The martini, which consisted of white rum, Chambord, passion fruit juice, lemon juice and Passoa liqueur, was smooth and sweet, whilst the St Paul’s 75 was long, light and pleasantly chilled.
Sylvain, our French waiter, was both informed and charming, suggesting a deliciously quaffable Viognier from the Languedoc to complement our tastes.
My guest opted for the Pulled Pork Yorkshire Pudding; bitter apple, calvados and succulent pork encased in a crisp exterior. My meaty tiger prawns, generously portioned and astonishingly fresh, could have been caught the very same day.
The taglierini pasta was positively swamped by large, meaty pieces of fresh lobster, complimented by a lightly spicy chilli and garlic sauce. My 8oz Scottish Rib-eye steak was perfectly rare, accompanied by delicious frites and a pleasant mushroom and tarragon sauce. The frivolously buttered spinach complimented the steak marvellously.
A tremendous cellar of decent wines include a Gavi di Gavi and a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Italy, and a Pouilly Fume and a Chateau Tour de Pez from France. English sparkling brut from Stanlake Park, along with London beers and ales are offered.
Although tempted by the Valrhona Chocolate Pot, which had previously wafted past our table and tantalised our taste buds, we opted for the chocolate brownie, served with tangy earl grey ice cream – a delight that would surely appease even the strictest dieters in the room.
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