Chef season kicked off this November at Indian Essence in Petts Wood, Kent with the début evening under the culinary care of acclaimed chefs Atul Kochar and Jun Tanaka.
Jun, with experience working in London’s top restaurants, worked with owner Atul to create a six course menu, paired with accompanying wine in a setting that breaks with the London norm.
Atul, with a Michelin star to his name, is best known for quality Indian flair combined with a best-of-British twist at long-running London stalwart restaurant Benares – one that ensures that Indian cuisine throughout the capital remains high.
Tonight’s chef-season partner was Jun Tanaka, a friendly, professional and enthusiastic American-British chef with Japanese roots who counts his own working history at places such as Le Gavroche, and with Eric Chavot, and Marco Pierre White, as well as more recently being the man behind Street Kitchen.
Diners at Indian Essence were welcomed with a passion fruit and Khatti chutney Bellini to start – an explosion of fiery, zingy texture and sweetness in a glass. This was followed by caramelised scallops with ginger, butternut squash and pumpkin seeds.
The pan fried seabass with polenta and Alleppey sauce was the biggest hit dish of the evening for me; the ochre-tinged alleppey sauce giving some red hot personality to the accompanying crunchy polenta and tender bass.
This dish was paired with Atul’s own-label ‘Cuvée Reserve’ 2009 Gewurztraminer from producers J-C Gueth in Alsace, France. British twists made themselves known in the soft and succulent Lamb Wellington, served with celeriac purée, brussel tops and gravy – an unexpected injection of the Anglo.
Spiced Pear and Quince Mille Feuille with Turmeric Diplomat Cream followed – bright yellow swirls encased this delicately spiced desert, paired with a suitably sticky Tokaji Magita Cuvee from Hungary. Diners were contented. The chefs proud to serve.
The next chef season at Indian Essence takes please on 22 January (chef TBC).
If you like dining at Indian restaurants, read our reviews of Gymkhana, Quilon and Moti Mahal.
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