Eleanor’s Bar, Charing Cross Hotel

Vilma Darling continues her tour of London’s bars, stopping off at the Charing Cross hotel.

Eleanor’s, the newly revamped cocktail bar at the Charing Cross hotel is literally situated in the centre of London. Whether it is the distance from Paris (257 miles), Los Angeles (5455 miles) or Sydney (10,500 miles), the point for measuring the distance to and from London is here at Charing Cross.

The bar (previously known as the Strand) is named after the Eleanor’s Cross just outside the hotel. The original Eleanor’s Cross was built by Edward I in the 13th century in memory of his Spanish wife, Eleanor of Castile, and was standing in what is now the Trafalgar Square.

After Queen Eleanor had died unexpectedly on the way to Scotland to meet him, King Edward ordered twelve memorial crosses installed at the various points that the funeral procession had stopped from Lincoln to Westminster Abbey. Only three of the original crosses remain today and the one at Charing Cross is the 146-year-old Victorian replica.

After we sit down at a window table from where Eleanor’s Cross can be seen, the bar’s manager, Laurent Bertolini, tells its story and suggests we try their signature drink created in honour of the medieval queen – Eleanor’s Castilian Sangria (£13.95 and serves two).

The Sangria (Rioja, V.S.O.P. brandy, cinnamon, mint and fruit) had been made three days ago and was brought to us in a jar on a wooden board. The two wine glasses are half filled with lemonade and fresh fruit (strawberries, blueberries and raspberries). Laurent mixes the Sangria with lemonade over the board, and Salud! We toast to the Spanish Queen. The drink is refreshing, light and perfect for summer.

We are also treated to a plate of Spanish meats and cheese with olives, piccalilli, chutney and small pieces of toasted bread. All of the nibbles are truly excellent, but I’m in love with the ham and Philip with the roasted beef, which was very thinly sliced.

Laurent suggests I try the Espresso Martini (a single shot of espresso, vanilla vodka £11.95). Philip, who had a horrible week at work, decides to treat himself to his favourite cocktail, the Old Fashioned (sweet bourbon, angostura bitters, cane sugar and orange peel, £10.95).

‘It is more than drinkable’, he says happily caressing his cocktail glass. My Espresso Martini has the subtle hints of almond and vanilla vodka goes very well with coffee flavours.

Candles placed in red glasses create the bar’s cosy atmosphere, and the black and white fashion prints and red lamps on the marble bar remind me of the famous London jazz club Ronnie Scott’s. The candles are lit throughout the hotel and also on every step of the marble staircase leading to the bar, so do take the stairs and not the lift if you want to make a grand entrance.

Laurent says that all the Eleanor’s barmen will get a chance to create their signature cocktail menus and try to sell them to customers every week. We are intrigued with what they might come up with and promise to return.

Website: www.guoman.com/Eleanors

Address: Charing Cross, The Strand,London WC2N 5HX

Phone: 0871 376 9012

For further information or to make a reservation, please contact your concierge.

Good Godfrey’s Bar at The Waldorf Hilton

Right in the middle of London’s West End, the Good Godfrey’s bar in the Waldorf Hilton hotel is bustling with the pre-theatre crowds enjoying cocktails on a school-night Tuesday. Luckily there’s a table reserved for us and the smiling waiter is right here with the menus happy to explain and advise about the signature and classic cocktails.

The Waldorf hotel was one of the first to host the scandalous Tango Teas to teach Londoners the Argentinean moves, but in 1926 dancing became even more popular when handsome young band leader Howard Godfrey became a household name – Good Godfrey’s bar is named after him.

Howard Godfrey and the Waldorfians staged the Best Show in Town and made hundreds of radio appearances and records, always in fierce competition with The Savoy as to who would sell the most albums.

Good Godfrey’s is decorated with beautiful art deco chandeliers, large antiqued mirrors and plush armchairs. The marble, chrome and granite bar is illuminated by clever lighting and grey, brown, gold and burgundy colours help to recreate the stylish splendour of the 1920s. The original listed wood panelling is preserved and the decorative wallpaper was added to the ceiling.

I love any cocktail that contains champagne, so to start my evening and to give tribute to London’s theatre-land I ordered The Gaiety Girls – Calvados, green tea and vanilla syrup, lemon and apple juice, topped with Champagne (£14).

My companion Emyr adores Martinis, so he chose one of the ‘Luxury’ cocktails, Waldrof-Tini – a Martini made either with Tanqueray No.10 and grapefruit bitters or Grey Goose Vodka with ginger bitters and Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth. It is stirred in a golden shaker and garnished with edible gold (£17). Emyr went for gin, and when I tried his cocktail I thought it was one of the strongest I had ever tasted. Luckily, it came with a glass of water. Emyr really liked the slight tint of grapefruit and I was charmed with the refreshing taste of my Gaiety Girls.

The drinks list at Good Godfrey’s was created by award winning mixologist Nelson Bernardes and the maestro himself came to say hello to us.

One of his cocktails, “1908” refers to the opening of the Waldorf hotel in London the same year. Nelson explained that it is based on the classic Bronx cocktail, created in the Waldorf Astoria in New York. “1908” is another “Luxury” treat and I was seduced by the intoxicating blend of Oxley gin, sweet and dry Vermouth, Mandarine Napoleon and orange bitters (£19).

Emyr ordered one of the signature cocktails, the Refined Madam. Nelson informed us, that during the 1800s Londoners drank badly made gin known as ‘Madam Geneva’. Today he is using premium Tanqueray No.10 as well as rose liqueur, fresh lime juice, the Waldorf ’s cardamom syrup and lavender bitters to create a much more Refined Madam (£12.00).

We had to leave for our dinner reservation, but next time I’ll definitely order another signature cocktail, The Astor Hip Flask (£15.00). It is named after William Waldorf Astor (the owner of the Waldorf Astoria in NY and an investor in the Waldorf in London) and is presented in a real hip flask, rather like William’s. The bourbon based cocktail is mixed with secret ingredients, aged in a small barrel and I’m sure it will be worth the wait.

For further details or for reservations, please contact your concierge.

Website: www.waldorfhilton.co.uk

Address: The Waldorf Hilton, London Aldwych, WC2B 4DD

Phone: 020 7836 2400

Opening Times: Until 2am all week; 12am on Sundays

Hotel d’Inghilterra, Rome

Vilma Darling visits the Hotel d’Inghilterra in Rome.

Just a couple of blocks away from the famous Spanish steps and Piazza di Spagna in the centre of Rome, Hotel d’Inghilterra is perfectly located for tourists eager to shop, dine and visit ancient historic attractions. The city’s most exclusive shopping street, Via Condotti, is around the corner and the magnificent Pantheon (built in 126 AD) is about a 10 to 15 minute walk away.

The original hotel building dates back to the 16th century when it served as a guesthouse for the nearby palace of the Torlonia princes, and the little square in front of the hotel was used to park the horse and carriages, which were also washed in the fountain there.

Named in honour of the Englishmen who visited Rome during the days of the Grand Tour of Europe (poet John Keats lived in Piazza di Spagna and so his friends, such as Lord Byron, stayed in the guesthouse), the building became a hotel in 1845.

Hans Christian Andersen, Henry James, Ernest Hemingway, Mark Twain and Wilbur Smith lived in the Hotel d’Inghilterra and H.R.H Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, signed the hotel’s Golden Book celebrating its 150th anniversary. The hotel’s logo is inspired by the British Royal Family’s coat of arms and apparently bears testimony to the connections between the hotel and the Royal House of Windsor.

Hotel d’Inghilterra strives to reflect rooms in a private home and so each of the 69 bedrooms and 20 suites have their unique style with silk and damask fabrics, large Baroque mirrors and marble bathrooms.

Our room was on the small side (Classic Double rooms are approximately 18m²), but very cosy, and I especially loved the mahogany chest and other antique furniture, red walls and period paintings. The wooden shutters and heavy curtains were perfect for sleeping in after a late night out in the city.

The best rooms are higher up on the fifth floor, opening onto a tiled terrace, but the ultimate room is the Panoramic Suite, on the hotel’s top floor, that features a spacious sitting room, a large bedroom, two bathrooms and a terrace with views over Rome.

The hotel is quiet and discreet – the lobby and lounges offer private corners and are great for relaxing after a long day of sightseeing and shopping whilst admiring the collection of 19th-century Neapolitan gouaches.

The reception personnel were very helpful (they suggested a great nearby restaurant and called for taxis), but the room service staff were perhaps a little too attentive – a couple of times they knocked on the door even when the ‘do not disturb’ sign was on.

The Continental breakfast is served in a frescoed room, depicting an enchanted garden setting, as well as in the hotel’s bar. The English gentlemen’s club style bar is intimate, but offers James Bond’s 20 favourite drinks and was voted one of the best bars in Italy by Gambero Rosso guide, Bar d’Italia. My companion and I had champagne and scotch there, which was an ideal way to celebrate the end of our Roman holiday in the Eternal City.

For further information or to make a reservation, please contact your concierge.

Website: www.royaldemeure.com/en/hotel_inghilterra/

Address: Via Bocca di Leone, 14, 00187 Rome, Italy

Phone: +39 06 699811

Ushvani Spa, Chelsea

Vilma Darling eases away her stressful week, not at the bar where she usually resides, but at the beautiful Ushvani spa in Chelsea.

Have you ever had a working week from hell? When everything that could go wrong does go wrong, and you are even blamed for things you haven’t done, but no one cares about your explanation? The only cheerful thought in my head at the end of THAT week was about my appointment at Ushvani spa in London, where I was booked in for the 90 minute massage.

Ushvani (usha means dawn in Malay and avani is earth in Sanskrit) is a tranquil oasis just around the corner from the busy Sloane Street in Chelsea. Set in a Grade 2 Listed Edwardian town house, the spa is a hidden gem, which I was struggling to find due to illogical house numbering typical to central London. The spa had sent me a map with its location, but of course after my mad week in work, I had temporary amnesia and forgot to print it out…

When I finally did find it and was buzzed in at “No.1” Cadogan Gardens, most of my worries were left outside on the steps together with the city noise and pollution after the heavy door closed behind me. The friendly, smiling staff, lovely smells, colours, dimmed light and the hot towel soaked in ginger and nutmeg to clean the hands immediately washed away some of my stress.

Founded by the Malaysian businesswoman Usha Arumugam, Ushvani is an exclusive 3-story urban sanctuary with treatment rooms for both men and women, a suite for couples or families, a beautiful yoga studio and wet facilities for women only.

Hibiscus, the Malaysian national flower, features throughout the spa, and the beautiful dark wood furniture, original carvings and sculptures, that were all specially commissioned from local craftsmen in Malaysia, fit in the period building layout and the Georgian wooden staircase looks very natural with yellow silk batik curtains hanging in the middle.

Before my treatment I was invited to experience the spa facilities in the basement. I was the only guest there and was told that unless clients come with friends or family they wouldn’t have to share space apart from briefly crossing paths in the changing rooms.

I tried every possible shower combination – monsoon, tropical and other names that I can’t remember (every one of them came with dramatically changing lights). I inhaled nutmeg and ginger scented hot air to clear my lungs in the steam room and was blissfully sitting in the hydrotherapy pool next to a cascading waterfall when I was told it was time for my treatment.

The lovely therapist listened to the stories about my stressful week and straight away adjusted the massage to the needs of my sore neck and shoulders. The knots in my neck were so tight that I did see stars when she was pressing them, but I knew I had to suffer for hopefully better health. The best part of my treatment was the heated bed and also the advice the therapist had given me how to treat my sore neck and tension headaches – she demonstrated a few exercises and advised to apply balms on the troubled areas.

Ushvani therapists say the spa’s philosophy is based on Asian culture that focuses on spiritual harmony and natural treatments. All products are bespoke and made of natural herbs, spices and flowers in Malaysia or inspired by the country.

After my massage I was treated to a cup of hibiscus tea to finish off the relaxing experience. The exclusivity and fabulous therapists come at a price, but it’s worth it – a 90 minute massage costs £180; a 120 minute massage costs £240; and a 30 minute body scrub costs £60.

However, Ushvani’s Vinyasa Flow yoga classes are at a standard price for £15 per 90 minutes. Private yoga classes are available upon request and the best thing about it is the Sentosa studio – the most beautiful and stylish yoga room I have ever seen. Various workshops such as ‘Boosting your Energy’ are organised there, and at £37 for two hours is an original and exclusive present.

For further information or to make a reservation, please contact your concierge.

Ushvani

Address: 1 Cagodan Gardens, London, SW3 2RJ

Phone: 020 7730 2888

Website: www.ushvani.com

Equus Bar, Royal Horseguards Hotel

Vilma Darling continues her brave exploration around London’s bar scene with a visit to the Equus Bar at the Royal Horseguards hotel.

Tucked away in a quiet Whitehall Court by the river Thames, Equus bar in the Royal Horseguards hotel is a safe haven for overworked MPs, civil servants and, of course, those thirsty souls who just want to chill out and soak up the power of Westminster.

Just a few steps away from the Ministry of Defence, the Royal Horseguards was known as a ‘spy hotel’, since it served as a Secret Service headquarters during WWI.

Sitting down by the window overlooking the peaceful Whitehall Court on a sunny summer’s afternoon I imagine the hotel’s high profile guests such as Winston Churchill, George Bernard Shaw, William Gladstone, Sir Mansfield-Cumming and a bunch of unnamed spies smoking cigars and debating foreign policy dramas, the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand or supporting la résistance française.

The hotel owners created the Equus Bar with ‘the modern gent in mind’ and strived to preserve the atmosphere of a gentleman’s club. It does allow women in these days, thankfully, but the interior of red velvet chairs, chain mail gold, heroic oil paintings, leather fabrics and the two huge silver horse heads reminded me of times when all important political moves were decided by men only in smoke filled members’ clubs.

To shake off this not very pleasant idea I decided to cheer myself up with the George Bernard Shaw Cocktail – Gin, Campari and Cheering Liqueur – served ‘On the Rocks’, per the title of Shaw’s 1933 play.

I did bring a gentleman friend to this gents’ bar, so Philip, who is a devoted Scotch lover, decided to pay tribute to the hotel’s most famous patron and ordered the Churchill Cocktail – Bourbon, aromatic bitters and homemade tobacco syrup.

Negroni is one of my favourite cocktails, so the George Bernard Shaw, which is made of two of the same liquors as Negroni (Gin & Campari) had a familiar, but sweeter taste and was very easy to drink.

Philip thought his cocktail was ‘out of the way’, especially enjoying the subtle taste of the tobacco syrup. Churchill was said to smoke at least 10 cigars a day, but with the smoking ban the cigar lovers who don’t want to venture outside will have to be satisfied with this drink only.

Equus bar has nothing to do with Peter Shaffer’s play where Daniel Radcliffe (aka Harry Potter) scandalously took ALL of his clothes off, but gives tribute to cavalrymen. Part of the cost of the Cavalry Cocktail (ruby port, Cognac, Grand Marnier & red Burgundy) is passed on to charities supporting wounded soldiers.

This cocktail was created exclusively for the Royal Horseguards by mixologist Andy Pearson, but the charity part was enough for me to choose it as my second drink. Philip in the meantime continued with the history theme and chose the Sir Mansfield-Cumming Cocktail (Scotch, quince liqueur, fresh lemon & whiskey barrel aged bitters).

My Cavalry Cocktail is described as very masculine, and, MAN, it was! My gentleman’s friend choice, the cocktail named after the first director of the Secret Intelligence Service (also known as MI6), was full of surprises and not what he expected. Philip thought it was a little too citrusy, but when our friend Beck joined us, she absolutely loved it and ordered one for herself without hesitation.

Philip and I finished the night with our most beloved cocktails – Classic Champagne (me) and Old Fashioned (him), which the Equus barman had no problem mixing up. We did feel quite merry after our few drinks, and influenced by the political power all around us started plotting world dominance until it was time to go home…

Website: www.guoman.com

Address: Address: 2 Whitehall Court, London, SW1A 2EJ

Phone: 0871 376 9033

Wine Guide: A Guide to Good Wine Drinking, Part 3

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this final part of the series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares some of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 3: When in the Shop… Vilma’s Crash Course on Popular Grape Varieties

If you know the main characteristics of some of the most popular grape varieties, you’ll find it much easier to navigate in the shop. You could refer to a book or check on the internet which flavours are typical to certain grapes, otherwise, read on for a crash course on the most popular wines.

Cabernet – has a specific structure, with lots of black current, cassis flavours, definitely high in tannins and high in acidity, which means it is a food friendly wine. Tannins in wine from Napa Valley will be overshadowed by fruit. Cabernet from the Old World usually develops more tobacco and leather aromas – for example, Cabernet form Bordeaux is more earth than fruit driven.

Merlot – almost opposite from Cabernet, Merlot has softer tannins and is less acidic, so it is a bit rounder and softer. It has plum aromas and is more fruit driven. People love Merlot wine; it’s a real crowd pleaser.

Pinot Noir – is always lighter, has good acidity and a medium body, with strawberry and red berry aromas versus black. It’s more tart, doesn’t have much of the tannins and so is smoother, more elegant and food friendly.

Nebbiolo – very, very tart. Barolo Barbesco made from Nebbiolo grapes is very high in acid and tannins. When grapes are high in tannins, you want to buy them a little bit older. When they get older, the tannins soften – the acidity of tannins mould together in a bottle and is much more appealing to drink.

That’s why Bordeaux wines are great to keep for longer. You put them away because the tannins can be a little bit too harsh in their youth, so a little older Bordeaux would be much more enjoyable.

Pinot Noir will also become a little bit softer and more elegant with age, so the tartiness and the acidity will mellow down. Some white Burgundies can age for many, many years. The tannins and the acidity of the sugar are the two key elements for wine to age. These are the preservatives that work their way into the wine flavour. As white Burgundy is very, very acidic, it ages extremely well.

German Riesling can age for a hundred years because of high sugar and will still be amazing.

Beaujolais Nouveau – very trendy, it comes out right after the harvest. The wine is very fruity and easy to drink. All Beaujolais are made from the Gamay grape, but Beaujolais wine from the 10 Grand Cru villages taste more like Burgundy.

Pinot Grigio – has medium acidity and medium body. It is tempting to say that people who like Pinot Grigio like very neutral whites or neutral wines that don’t have much of anything really. Some Pinot Grigio wines are better than others, but many are made in a very cheap way. It’s not my favourite thing to drink, but of course some Pinot Grigios are fantastic. For example, one of my favourites, Venica Pinot Grigio, is very good.

If you like Pinot Grigio, you might like wines that have similar characteristics. For example, Grüner Veltliner, can be a little bit spicier. Many Italian whites, such as Gavi de Gavi also have similar characteristics.

Chardonnay – it really depends where it comes from. A lot of Chardonnays now are made with active oak, so they are creamy and buttery. But Chardonnay from Burgundy is more mineral and acid than oak driven.

Sauvignon Blanc – is bright and has good acidity. It also has lots of grassy characteristics and smells like jalapeños, gooseberries and asparagus, especially if it’s from New Zealand. The most famous Sauvignon Blanc region is Sancerre in France and its wine is one of the best whites in the world; it’s really amazing!

Sauvignon Blanc isn’t normally aged in oak, so it is fresh and bright and food friendly, but of course as always, it depends on what area the wine comes from. Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is definitely going to be sharper and will have a little bit more of the jalapeño and gooseberry aromas while Sancerre wines posses all that greenness, but has more subtle flavours.

Champagne – sparkling wine was actually discovered in the South of France and not the Northern Champagne region. Today sparkling wines from the Champagne area are considered to be the finest in the world.

The area is quite small, but cold and perfect for sparkling wine as the grapes do not get too ripe and have lots of acidity. Champagne is made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes according to the traditional method, which is labour and money intensive. The second fermentation starts in an individual bottle, so you have to add yeast and sugar into each bottle to begin it.

Italian Prosecco is much cheaper, because both fermentations are done in huge tanks. Spanish Cava, however, is done according to the traditional method, but from different grapes than in the Champagne region.

Cristal Champagne, made by Roederer Champagne house is one of the most expensive because it is a special cuvee (best grape juice, cuvée is the first 2,050 litres of grape juice from 4,000 kg of grapes). Cristal was specially made for the Russian tsar and has only been sold commercially since 1945.

Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are red grapes, but of course you can make white wine from red grapes when you don’t leave contact with the skin (juice is white from all the grape varieties). Champagne made from only Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grapes is sharper and has spicier aromas. Champagne made from only Chardonnay grapes is more creamy, yeasty and has rounder flavours. Rose champagne has more strawberry aromas and is sharper.

Cheers!

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog. What’s your favourite wine? We would love to hear your thoughts, so please leave your comments below.

Wine Guide: A Guide to Good Wine Drinking, Part 2

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this second part of a three part series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares more of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 2: Vilma’s Guide to Basic Food & Wine Pairing

Acidity is the main ingredient for food and wine pairing. For me it’s very important, because I always have some wine with food. You can pair similar textures of food and wine or you can almost contrast them. For example, the classic pairing – spicy works well with something a little bit sweet, so German Riesling and spicy Thai food is a match made in heaven.

You could have some game meat with the same aromas in wine – gamey and spicy. For example, Syrah or Grenache, let’s say from Rhone, would go extremely well with game and would have enough acidity to elevate its flavours.

Creamy pasta can be great with creamy white wine – what goes better with cream than more cream? Well, it could also work well with good acidity light red, which would cut through the richness of the butter or cream of pasta sauce, like Pinot Noir from Burgundy or Nebbiolo from the Piedmont region in Italy.

When it comes to seafood, it depends of course, but if it is grilled, fresh seafood or fish with olive oil and lemon, then it should be white wine.

I don’t always enjoy the New World wines, because they are bigger, bolder and fruit driven. They are great to enjoy on their own, but when it comes to food, they can lack acidity. I prefer wines that are a little bit more lean and elegant, but that doesn’t mean that they are not full of flavour; they have so many layers if you really want to start analysing them.

That’s why I love Burgundy – a light and elegant style pairs well with food. Chablis or unoaked Chardonnay are bright and have amazing acidity, so you can pair them with oysters and with any type of seafood or salads. Chablis normally is unoaked, but if you go a little bit down South to Burgundy, you get Meursault which is normally round and smoky because of the oak influence and you can pair it with creamy pasta.

When I go out, I always choose a bottle of sparkling or a bottle of white that pairs well with the majority of foods, because I love to eat small plates. White wine always works well with food because of the acidity and its brightness. Lighter red is also always good and a safe option if you are not sure what you are going to eat.

Rosé is another wine that can be universal with food. If you are having different dishes such as tapas or not sure what to eat, a bottle of rosé is perfect.

If you drink certain wines without food you might not enjoy them, because they might be too sharp, acidic or tannic and will lose their value. Wines such as the very tart Sangiovese, the anic Nebbiolo or the acidic Burgundy require food to balance them out.

If you are not into food and wine pairing, do not worry and choose your favourite wines with any kind of food: The most important thing is to enjoy and trust your own palate.

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog and keep an eye out for the final part of the guide, which will be posted shortly.

Wine Guide: A Guide To Good Wine Drinking, Part 1

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this first part of a three part series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares some of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 1: Vilma’s Wine Drinking Tips

1. Drink Champagne from a White Wine Glass

Champagne is my favourite wine; unfortunately a lot of people forget that champagne is actually a wine and not just some fizzy drink to make a toast with. I love to serve champagne in a white wine glass – even in the Champagne area of France and some of the best restaurants, it isn’t served in a flute. Champagne is one the finest wines in the world and can be enjoyed as such throughout the meal. The wider wine glass softens the bubbles, so you get a better taste of flavours.

Don’t save Champagne for special occasions or celebrations only. It has the highest acidity of all white wines and pairs well with food. Champagne has the combination of breadness, yeast and creaminess and is great with seafood, especially oysters. Certain Champagnes such as Krug, Bollinger and Vilmart are aged in oak, so they develop rich and creamy characteristics and can withstand any type of dish.

It is, however, worth maintaining tradition for toasts – then you can drink from a flute to help the Champagne to stay fizzy, which is great for surviving long speeches!

2. Buy ‘Grower Champagne’

The big champagne houses such as Veuve Clicquot or Moet & Chandon mass produce champagne and make millions of bottles. They do not grow enough grapes to satisfy the demand and have to buy them from the whole Champagne region. The NM letters (Négociant-Manipulant) on the label will tell you that the Champagne house sources the majority of their grapes.

I prefer to drink the ‘grower champagne’ – the Champagne produced by wine makers who grow their own grapes instead of selling them to big houses.

The initials RM (meaning Récoltant-Manipulant) mean that the champagne you bought or ordered was made by growers under their own label. RM champagnes are incredible and exclusive, but often cost less than the famous names.

3. Decant White & Red Wine

Decant old wine to help remove the sediments or if you want to achieve the right temperature or soften the acidity and tannins.

Old wine often has dead yeast or dead protein cells that are totally harmless, but might not be pleasant, on the bottom of your glass. Even white wine has crystals, which can actually be a good thing because the wine wasn’t stabilised with many chemicals or filtered too much and is therefore more natural.

Wine might be too cold when brought straight from the cellar, so decant to achieve the appropriate temperature.

Decant white and red wine to soften the acidity. I decant young white Burgundy wines because the air softens not only the flavour, but it helps to warm the wine up so you can truly enjoy the bouquet. Red Burgundy is served in big bowl glasses because of the same need for air, but some bottles could be far too elegant for decanting; it totally depends on the year or producer.

Red wines with high tannins and high acidity such as Cabernet, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo taste much better decanted.

4. Do Not Hesitate to Refuse Bad Wine in Restaurants

Wine can be spoilt when corked or oxidised. If you’ve never tried bad wine you probably wouldn’t know how horrible it tastes. Wine can be corked when bacteria gets into the cork – it will smell of mold and must.

Wine can get oxidised when left in the light or in a room with temperature variations, because it has to be kept in a stable climate. The air can also get through the cork and oxidise the wine. It will taste like vinegar and will smell of cider rather than wine.

You should return the bad wine, because drinking it would do no justice to the restaurant or the wine label. It’s impossible to enjoy corked or oxidized wine and you will never order the same bottle again.

5. Investigate the Lesser-Known Regions

If you want to find great wines at a good price, look into less famous areas. Let’s say, the ten Cru Beaujolais villages in France. I absolutely love one of the producers Marcel Lapierre from Morgon. Beaujolais have had a bad reputation for many years for making bubble gum like wines, but after you try such producers as Marcel Lapierre, it will become your favourite, I have no doubt.

There are other lesser-known areas in the expensive Burgundy region, such as Giverny, Mercurey or Macon. These places are off the beaten path but you may well be surprised by both the quality and the value of the wines.

Famous producers always make village wines or second label wines, so if you know a good producer, buy their second label wines if you want to save money. For example, Leroy which is a big famous Burgundy name, makes a regular, but great, Bourgogne. There is the Vezelay village next to the famous Chablis region in France where wine makers use the same grape variety (Chardonnay), but sell for much less. Try Domaine de la Cadette wines and you can thank me later!

I love Italy because it is the source of good wines that aren’t expensive at all. There are still lots of small areas that you can discover, such as the Marche region; also Puglia, Campania or Sicily. The grapes are often indigenous to that area and you might not have heard of them.

Spain also holds good value for money. I’ve recently fallen in love with Spanish whites, such as Albarino or Verdejo. Txakoli from the Basque country is unbelievable too – you almost never describe wine as salty, but Txakoli is a bit salty because the grapes grow so close to the ocean.

Of course, you might make a mistake and you’ll never buy that wine again, so play with small amounts of money. I never buy expensive wine, but always investigate areas that are close to famous wine producers, but nowhere near close to their prices. Open a map and look for regions that you haven’t come across before – you might be surprised.

6. Invest in Burgundy

If you want to invest in wine, buy only big names. The best ones come from Bordeaux and Burgundy in France. Barbaresco and Barolo in Italy can sometimes be good for investing, but Bordeaux wines will probably bring the best returns.

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog.

You can click here to read Part 2 of the guide or here to read the final part.

Travel Guide: Feversham Arms Hotel & Verbana Spa

Vilma Darling visits the Feversham Arms hotel, an idyllic rural retreat in Yorkshire.

If there’s such a thing as an ideal English countryside retreat, then the Feversham Arms hotel and Verbena spa in Helmsley, Yorkshire, is definitely very close to perfection. Or at least so it seemed to me when I was sitting in the wooden hot tub outdoors in the early days of this spring.

The trees hadn’t blossomed yet, so I was admiring the crows’ nests on the bare branches and the ancient church tower with the rooster wind vane while the birds screamed at their enemies and the dark clouds were threatening to burst with rain.

I didn’t mind the miserable weather one tiny bit, because the hotel and the spa had absolutely everything that I might have needed: a restaurant run by two formidable chefs, an amazing champagne menu, a boardroom, library and private dining facilities as well as a great film collection in every room. The Verbena spa offered a large range of beauty and health treatments, along with a heated swimming pool and hot tub outside in the courtyard. The hotel’s manager, Simon Rhatigan, informed me that guests were enjoying the outdoor facilities even last winter when the Yorkshire area suffered from heavy snow.

I enjoyed the Verbena spa to the full: my Elemis Taster Facial and scalp massage were very relaxing (and, I hope, beneficial) and I particularly loved the ‘welcome touch’ – a hot towel rub for my tired feet. The spa also features a steam room, sauna, aromatherapy room, salt inhalation room, ice cave, foot spas and a cosy relaxation area, where I saw some ladies happily sleeping.

Originally built as a coaching inn in the 19th century, the hotel later expanded and now features 33 individually designed bedrooms, 22 of which are suites. All bedrooms are fitted with Bang & Olufsen televisions with integral DVD and CD players, L’Occitane toiletries, Egyptian cotton bedding and a toy sheep with a “Do not disturb” name-tag.

The hotel features a professionally lit gallery area and lots of original prints and collected art, mostly from local artists and I was seriously considering buying the apparently very popular “Feversham Cow” charcoal sketch (£245.00) that I kept seeing everywhere in the hotel.

The manager informed me that the hotel is a popular place for wedding celebrations, birthdays and anniversaries, while others just like walking in the North York Moors National Park, exploring the coast or visiting Helmsley’s shops and galleries.

Feversham’s Food & Beverage director, Michelin-starred chef Chris Staines, was recruited from London’s Mandarin Oriental hotel where he had run the Foliage restaurant. He and head chef Simon Kelly (who worked with Michel Roux at the Waterside Inn) have improved the afternoon tea menu (£22.50 per person) and introduced a 5 course tasting menu (paired with wine) and a 3 course a la carte menu as standard. Both dining menus cost a decent £45 per person.

At the afternoon tea table, the ladies and I cleared the crab, crème fraiche & coriander sandwiches and were very impressed with the passion fruit mousse with coffee jelly and lemon posset. I’m a devout macaroon lover and even though the violet & lavender and blood orange & lemon macaroons were good, they didn’t quite live up to my expectations.

However, the food at dinner was exceptionally good, thanks to the ingenuity of both chefs. I had yellow fin tuna with hazelnuts, Iberico ham and balsamic reduction as a starter; wild sea bass with Jerusalem artichokes, chicory and Parmesan beignet for the main course;  and we finished our meal with a huge plate of cheese each. The waitress rolled out the massive trolley with 18 different cheeses and gave a deep sigh when we asked to name them all. That was probably our mistake and a waste of time, because by the time she finished, I could only remember one name: “The Stinking Bishop”.

After a truly satisfying meal I retired to my beautiful spa suite to enjoy some of the great films in my room (Godfather, Casablanca, The English Patient and “Y tu mama tambien” to name a few). But then the Yorkshire Sheep Dip lavender bubble bath caught my attention and I lit the incense and the candle and ended up in the very comfortable bath with one of my favourite magazines, and placed the toy sheep with “Do not disturb me” tag outside my door.

Website: www.fevershamarmshotel.com

Address: Feversham Arms Hotel & Verbena Spa, Helmsley, North Yorkshire, YO62 5AG

Phone: +441439 770 766

For further information or to make a reservation, please contact your concierge.

Travel Guide: The Elysian Hotel, Chicago

Vilma Darling experiences fine living and fine dining at The Elysian Hotel in the Windy City.

The quality of service is the first thing that always strikes me when I arrive in the United States from Europe, and I was even fortunate enough to be treated well by the immigration officers on this visit. I’m not saying that travelling is less enjoyable in other countries, but there’s something special about the friendliness and helpfulness of staff on the other side of the pond. It almost has another dimension, not really possible or achievable in the good old continent.

I had the luxury to experience the height of this special treatment during my two-night stay at the 5-star Elysian Hotel in Chicago’s Gold Coast neighbourhood, which actually is – roll the drum – a tip-free hotel. Tipping is expected in most places in the States and my American friends often like to remind me that that’s how the service personnel make most of their money. But tipping graciously is something that we don’t know how to do properly in Europe (or we don’t do it at all), so in America I often find myself at a loss about how much and when to tip. I’m told that it’s necessary even when the service is not great. Imagine my relief when I found out that this hassle is non-existent at the Elysian and the hospitality there seemed genuine without tipping expectations.

Architect Lucien Lagrange designed the newly-built 60-storey and 188-room Elysian hotel, which opened in December 2009, and with Chanel, Dior and Art Deco inspired design, brought ultra-luxury and style to Chicago’s fine dining and even finer living scene.

Its heated courtyard is unusual for the States and more reminiscent of European hotels, but the sheer height of the building and spaciousness of the rooms (average accommodation is 890 square feet) reminds you that you are in North America, where size matters.

I absolutely loved the art pieces, specially commissioned for the hotel by interior designer Simeon Deary’s team. The beautiful foyer with huge chandelier and two striking sculptures that resemble Greek fauns is a perfect place for special occasions, and, indeed, there was a wedding photo-session in full swing when we first entered the hotel.

The platinum and champagne coloured suites and Chanel jewellery inspired lighting soothe the nerves after a day spent shopping in the very near Magnificent Mile strip of Michigan Avenue. You don’t even have to go that far for Marc Jacobs though – its boutique is on the ground floor of the hotel.

There’s a decent size balcony and fireplace in every room and the television that can be switched on in the mirror in the bathroom is best enjoyed while soaking in a tub. The Roman bathhouse-themed Spa & Health Club features sauna, steam rooms, Jacuzzi and offers a wide range of treatments from beauty and massages to a barber suite for men.

The gym has enough equipment to make you sweat out the previous day’s indulgences while the Pilates and Gyrotonics studio offers a few classes as well as private training. The beautiful mosaic tiled swimming pool is positioned slightly awkwardly – you have to cross the gym and the spa reception area – but it’s worth the effort.

You don’t need to leave the hotel if you want to treat yourself to an amazing dinner. My Chicagoan friend Elizabeth told me that the Balsan bistro does the best burger in town (she said she couldn’t even talk to her husband while eating it), and truly, the Wood Fired Burger with cheddar, rosemary, red onion and fries was definitely one of the most delicious burgers I’ve ever had ($15). Run by Chef Danny Grant, Balsan has strong ties with local producers and sources seasonal ingredients from 65 local farms for the ever-changing menu.

The RIA restaurant next door, also run by Chef Grant, is more of a sophisticated and formal dining experience. It was awarded two stars by the 2011 Michelin Guide and the prices are steeper than at Balsan. However, every Sunday night you can experience the best of both restaurants for a bargain price of $29 per person when RIA is closed and Balsan does a special set menu. We had Winter Lettuce (endive & walnuts), Tuna Crudo with blood orange and scallions, Suckling Pig with pearl onion and baby carrot, Lobster and Scallop with fennel and citrus butter, with Caramel Profiteroles in chocolate sauce ending our great fine dining treat.

The Elysian is definitely worth its name – in Greek mythology the paradise for souls of heroic and virtuous nature was called the Elysian Fields. The Elysian Hotel also offers 52 private residences for people who wish to stay there permanently. They must not only be of heroic, but also of a wealthy nature, as most of the residences are worth more than $1 million.

For further information, visit their website or contact your concierge to make a booking.