Duval-Leroy at The Greenhouse Mayfair

By Qin Xie

When we think of champagne, we inevitably think of canapés; indeed, this is the most frequent mode of delivery. At a stretch, perhaps, we think of demi-sec or sec with desserts. But outside of champagne enthusiasts, how many of us sit down to champagne matched to every course?

Well, as I discovered over a Duval-Leroy lunch at The Greenhouse, the French serve nothing but champagne at weddings, making it the ultimate celebratory drink. That’s a rather apt discovery since Duval-Leroy is one champagne house that’s very focused on their food. Take their Lady Rose, which was originally created for Pierre Hermé macaroons. But more on that later.

First, let’s sit down to a selection of their champagnes matched by head chef Arnaud Bignon’s specially created menu.

Duval-Leroy has 15 cuvées in its portfolio. We started with Fleur de Champagne 1er Cru NV as an aperitif, a champagne which celebrated its centenary last year and is Duval-Leroy’s best sellers in the restaurant trade. It’s not hard to see why it’s so popular – a delicate floral nose with a solid structure, ready to stand up against any likely canapé pairings.

Champagne Duval-Leroy lunch at The Greenhouse, Mayfair

Next up was the Rosé Prestige 1er Cru NV. This salmon-pink champagne is said to boast a bouquet of cherries, figs and even a hint of ginger – a difficult match but the chef’s wild salmon dish, with hints of curry and wasabi, worked beautifully.

The third champagne, La Femme de Champagne 2000 Grand Cru, was the favourite amongst the wine writers around the table. The powerful vintage, only produced in certain years and from selected Grand Cru plots, had great structure and finished to a soft mousse on the palate. Cornish crab highlighted with mint jelly, Granny Smith apple and curry made another challenging match but one that La Femme easily overcame with finesse.

The only blanc de blancs we had, the Clos des Bouveries 2005 cuvée oenoclimatique, was Duval-Leroy’s special experiment. The champagne, produced solely from Chardonnay grapes harvested from a century-old Duval-Leroy owned vineyard near Vertus, is vintaged every year so the effect of the weather on each vintage is fully explored and exposed.

The dish matched was an equally experimental looking chicken with truffle, chestnut and squash. Champagne with meat is perhaps the most difficult match and in this case there was a little too much experimentation on the palate.

The final champagne was the champagne for food lovers, and in particular, desserts – the aforementioned Lady Rose NV. Duval-Leroy still celebrate this champagne with their annual Dessert of the Year competition. At 25g/l dosage, the champagne falls firmly into the super sweet sec category.

Originally produced as a half bottle, it has proved so popular in Asia, matching well with Asian cuisine, that a full sized bottle is now produced too. With berries on the nose and slight acidity on the palate, the Lady Rose NV married well with the raspberry, lychee and rose dessert.

Champagne Duval-Leroy lunch at The Greenhouse, Mayfair

It seems that there’s certainly room for champagne with every course, though matching is not always so simple. Duval-Leroys champagnes did well with the fish and of course dessert but further explorations are certainly needed for meats. And that’s not something to complain about!

It was also interesting to learn about the champagne house’s dedication to the sustainable development of their vineyards and winemaking. This includes continued commitment to reducing water usage, use of solar panels to reduce their carbon footprint and a move towards organic vinification with some of their cuvées.

Now that is something worth raising a glass of champagne to.

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Hedonism Wines – Wine Boutique in Mayfair

Located in Mayfair, just north of Berkeley square, Hedonism Wines is a new fine wine and spirits boutique with over 1,000 spirits and 3,500 wines carefully selected by their experts.

Hedonism Wines

From classics including the Macallan 50 year old 1928, Taylor’s 1945, a Courvoisier 1976 Baccarat Decanter and Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache 1999 to a vast collection of the quirky Sine Qua Non, a complete vertical of Masseto, The Laird 2006 in a rather meagre 27 litre bottle and a Chartreuse Tarragona – they surely have something for every wine and spirits lover.

Hedonism Wines offer deliveries within 1 hour in central London and will also deliver throughout the UK and worldwide.

Hedonism Wines

There are 32 fine wines and 10 champagnes to taste on the Enomatic machines at Hedonism Wines, so you can always pop-in to try something new, and they have an event space for group tastings (pictured above).

The space at Hedonism Wines is designed in a welcoming, stylish way with plenty of quirky features to keep you coming back – there’s even a play area for the children while they wait. For further details, please visit the Hedonism Wines website.

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Champagne and Fromage, Covent Garden

Champagne and Fromage is one of the latest additions to Covent Garden’s list of eateries – in an area increasingly hailed as the ‘new Soho’ for all its fashionable and popular redevelopment.

As a Champagne shop, bar and bistro, Champagne and Fromage fits well into this area’s image of being a sleek new foodie destination, yet the no fuss, warm and welcoming ambience inside eradicates any potential for stuffiness or pretence.

Champagne + Fromage

This, however, doesn’t mean there is any less focus on quality. All the grower champagnes served at Champagne and Fromage are sourced by the owners from award-winning family owned producers, meaning that the resulting operation is a happy, stylish but informal setting for enjoying some of France’s most iconic produits gastronomiques, either on or off the premises.

“Our aim is to import a good collection [of champagne] to represent every style available” so says Maud Fierobe one of the owners and founders. Her passion for this project is self-evident, and underlying this is a desire to gently educate her customers.

“Champagne is a wine and we want to get people thinking of it in that way. It’s much more versatile than people often think. That’s why we don’t list still wine. If we did, people would order that instead, which would completely defeat the point.”

Champagne + Fromage

To add impetus to this, Maud and team have come up with a menu to complement their range of Champagnes, with delicious tartines (try La Nordique for beautifully pink, beetroot marinated salmon gravlax, a langues cheese mousse, salad leaves and their secret recipe champagne dressing) and charcuterie: peppery Corsican cured meat and French saussicon and salami.

In addition, Maud has her own dedicated ‘cheeseman’ who will deftly craft cheeseboards from a wide variety of mouth-watering cheeses – all beautifully displayed along French Bubble’s back wall. Like the champagnes, many of these are also hand-sourced directly from the producers.

Gooey Gaugry Epoisse along with their French blue goat’s cheese, and an interesting chilli and rosemary encrusted soft Corsican cheese are just a couple that keep their clientèle coming back for more.

Of course, the main draw at Champagne and Fromage is the bubbles, divided into Classic Brut Non Vintage, Blanc de Blancs Non Vintage (all 100% Chardonnay), increasingly popular Blanc de Noirs Non Vintage (100% pinot noir), Brut Rose, Extra Dry and Demi-sec, and Vintage.

Highlights include the interestingly decorated bottles by Waris Larmandier – try the Cuvee Collection Grand Cru (French bubbles is the only UK importer of this now infamous producer – one of only a few houses also legally allowed to use pinot blanc in their blends); Michel Furdyna’s Blanc de Noirs Champagne La Loge 2002, and his brut Rose that goes exceptionally well with charcuterie.

Other notable ones are the La-croix cuvee demie-sec (an unusual blend of 70% pinot meunier) and the Champagne Colin Cuvee Alliance – a producer name that is making itself more and more commonplace on people’s champagne wishlists. Tailored champagne and cheese tastings are arranged each month for £40 a person. Ask your concierge for details.

Address: Champagne and Fromage, 22 Wellington Street, WC2

Reservations: 0207 240 1604

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Wine Tasting with Riedel at Vinopolis

Maximilian Riedel will host two special wine tasting events at Vinopolis in May 2012, demonstrating the relationship between the shape of a glass and our perception and enjoyment of fine wines.

Friday 25th May at 7.00pm (doors open at 6.00pm)

Featuring Vinum XL, single tickets are available at £79 each and a ticket for two at £119 – each attendee will take home £100 worth of Riedel glasses free of charge on the night.

Saturday 26th May at 12.30pm (doors open at 11.00am)

Featuring the new ‘Key to Wine’ set of five Riedel O glasses, single tickets are available at £49 each and a ticket for two at £79. Each attendee will take home £65 worth of Riedel glasses.

A very limited number of VIP Grand Cru passes are also available, which will include a new decanter that will be unveiled at the event. VIP clients benefit from priority seating at the front of the auditorium, Champagne on arrival and the opportunity to personally meet Maximilian Riedel. There will also be a 20% discount on all Riedel products purchased.

Tickets are available now from www.riedel.co.uk

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Shop by Celebration from Vintage Seekers

Vintage Seekers, a London based company that curates the finest design and collectibles from the 20th century (from classic cars to couture fashion, vintage timepieces to mid-century furniture) has recently launched its new ‘Shop by Celebration‘ concept.

Vintage Seekers’ fundamental idea involves buying wines, champagnes and spirits as gifts for milestone celebrations. Whether it’s for a birthday, anniversary or birth of a new child, Vintage Seekers offer a simple one-stop platform for purchasing an amazing bottle of wine or spirit for a significant occasion. Sounds like a great idea!

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Lot18 Launches in the UK

Following its success in America, New York-based company Lot18 launched in the UK on 2nd March 2012. The members-only website gives consumers exclusive access to rare and hard-to-find wines at attractive prices.

Lot18 works by connecting its members to limited-time opportunities to purchase directly from wineries, with each product individually evaluated for quality by Lot18’s team of experts. With a few clicks, you can choose a premier wine at an affordable price to share at home with friends and family.

Lot18 UK aims to expand the website to offer gourmet food products and artisanal goods alongside travel experiences, similar to Lot18 in the US.

For further information, please visit their website.

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Grape vs. Grain at the Draft House

On 29 November 2011, The Draft House Tower Bridge and Wine Chap will launch Extreme Grape vs. Grain – a series of events “pitting the wickedest wines against the bolshiest beers”.

Each session will focus on a different country highlighting the variety of quality wines and beers each has to offer, as well as a poetry (haiku or limerick) and arm-wrestling competition with drinkable prizes! The schedule is as follows:

29th November 2011 – “California Über Alles” Extreme Thanksgiving Grape vs. Grain

24th January 2012 – “Love in a Cool Climate” Extreme English Grape vs. Grain

28th February 2012 – “Clash of the Titans” Extreme French Grape vs. Belgian Grain

27th March 2012 – “Don’t Mention the War” Extreme German Grape vs. Grain

Executive Chef Richard Shucksmith will showcase a sharing menu of signature pub dishes from The Draft House. For further information, please contact your concierge.

Wine Guide: A Guide to Good Wine Drinking, Part 3

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this final part of the series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares some of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 3: When in the Shop… Vilma’s Crash Course on Popular Grape Varieties

If you know the main characteristics of some of the most popular grape varieties, you’ll find it much easier to navigate in the shop. You could refer to a book or check on the internet which flavours are typical to certain grapes, otherwise, read on for a crash course on the most popular wines.

Cabernet – has a specific structure, with lots of black current, cassis flavours, definitely high in tannins and high in acidity, which means it is a food friendly wine. Tannins in wine from Napa Valley will be overshadowed by fruit. Cabernet from the Old World usually develops more tobacco and leather aromas – for example, Cabernet form Bordeaux is more earth than fruit driven.

Merlot – almost opposite from Cabernet, Merlot has softer tannins and is less acidic, so it is a bit rounder and softer. It has plum aromas and is more fruit driven. People love Merlot wine; it’s a real crowd pleaser.

Pinot Noir – is always lighter, has good acidity and a medium body, with strawberry and red berry aromas versus black. It’s more tart, doesn’t have much of the tannins and so is smoother, more elegant and food friendly.

Nebbiolo – very, very tart. Barolo Barbesco made from Nebbiolo grapes is very high in acid and tannins. When grapes are high in tannins, you want to buy them a little bit older. When they get older, the tannins soften – the acidity of tannins mould together in a bottle and is much more appealing to drink.

That’s why Bordeaux wines are great to keep for longer. You put them away because the tannins can be a little bit too harsh in their youth, so a little older Bordeaux would be much more enjoyable.

Pinot Noir will also become a little bit softer and more elegant with age, so the tartiness and the acidity will mellow down. Some white Burgundies can age for many, many years. The tannins and the acidity of the sugar are the two key elements for wine to age. These are the preservatives that work their way into the wine flavour. As white Burgundy is very, very acidic, it ages extremely well.

German Riesling can age for a hundred years because of high sugar and will still be amazing.

Beaujolais Nouveau – very trendy, it comes out right after the harvest. The wine is very fruity and easy to drink. All Beaujolais are made from the Gamay grape, but Beaujolais wine from the 10 Grand Cru villages taste more like Burgundy.

Pinot Grigio – has medium acidity and medium body. It is tempting to say that people who like Pinot Grigio like very neutral whites or neutral wines that don’t have much of anything really. Some Pinot Grigio wines are better than others, but many are made in a very cheap way. It’s not my favourite thing to drink, but of course some Pinot Grigios are fantastic. For example, one of my favourites, Venica Pinot Grigio, is very good.

If you like Pinot Grigio, you might like wines that have similar characteristics. For example, Grüner Veltliner, can be a little bit spicier. Many Italian whites, such as Gavi de Gavi also have similar characteristics.

Chardonnay – it really depends where it comes from. A lot of Chardonnays now are made with active oak, so they are creamy and buttery. But Chardonnay from Burgundy is more mineral and acid than oak driven.

Sauvignon Blanc – is bright and has good acidity. It also has lots of grassy characteristics and smells like jalapeños, gooseberries and asparagus, especially if it’s from New Zealand. The most famous Sauvignon Blanc region is Sancerre in France and its wine is one of the best whites in the world; it’s really amazing!

Sauvignon Blanc isn’t normally aged in oak, so it is fresh and bright and food friendly, but of course as always, it depends on what area the wine comes from. Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is definitely going to be sharper and will have a little bit more of the jalapeño and gooseberry aromas while Sancerre wines posses all that greenness, but has more subtle flavours.

Champagne – sparkling wine was actually discovered in the South of France and not the Northern Champagne region. Today sparkling wines from the Champagne area are considered to be the finest in the world.

The area is quite small, but cold and perfect for sparkling wine as the grapes do not get too ripe and have lots of acidity. Champagne is made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes according to the traditional method, which is labour and money intensive. The second fermentation starts in an individual bottle, so you have to add yeast and sugar into each bottle to begin it.

Italian Prosecco is much cheaper, because both fermentations are done in huge tanks. Spanish Cava, however, is done according to the traditional method, but from different grapes than in the Champagne region.

Cristal Champagne, made by Roederer Champagne house is one of the most expensive because it is a special cuvee (best grape juice, cuvée is the first 2,050 litres of grape juice from 4,000 kg of grapes). Cristal was specially made for the Russian tsar and has only been sold commercially since 1945.

Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are red grapes, but of course you can make white wine from red grapes when you don’t leave contact with the skin (juice is white from all the grape varieties). Champagne made from only Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grapes is sharper and has spicier aromas. Champagne made from only Chardonnay grapes is more creamy, yeasty and has rounder flavours. Rose champagne has more strawberry aromas and is sharper.

Cheers!

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog. What’s your favourite wine? We would love to hear your thoughts, so please leave your comments below.

Wine Guide: A Guide to Good Wine Drinking, Part 2

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this second part of a three part series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares more of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 2: Vilma’s Guide to Basic Food & Wine Pairing

Acidity is the main ingredient for food and wine pairing. For me it’s very important, because I always have some wine with food. You can pair similar textures of food and wine or you can almost contrast them. For example, the classic pairing – spicy works well with something a little bit sweet, so German Riesling and spicy Thai food is a match made in heaven.

You could have some game meat with the same aromas in wine – gamey and spicy. For example, Syrah or Grenache, let’s say from Rhone, would go extremely well with game and would have enough acidity to elevate its flavours.

Creamy pasta can be great with creamy white wine – what goes better with cream than more cream? Well, it could also work well with good acidity light red, which would cut through the richness of the butter or cream of pasta sauce, like Pinot Noir from Burgundy or Nebbiolo from the Piedmont region in Italy.

When it comes to seafood, it depends of course, but if it is grilled, fresh seafood or fish with olive oil and lemon, then it should be white wine.

I don’t always enjoy the New World wines, because they are bigger, bolder and fruit driven. They are great to enjoy on their own, but when it comes to food, they can lack acidity. I prefer wines that are a little bit more lean and elegant, but that doesn’t mean that they are not full of flavour; they have so many layers if you really want to start analysing them.

That’s why I love Burgundy – a light and elegant style pairs well with food. Chablis or unoaked Chardonnay are bright and have amazing acidity, so you can pair them with oysters and with any type of seafood or salads. Chablis normally is unoaked, but if you go a little bit down South to Burgundy, you get Meursault which is normally round and smoky because of the oak influence and you can pair it with creamy pasta.

When I go out, I always choose a bottle of sparkling or a bottle of white that pairs well with the majority of foods, because I love to eat small plates. White wine always works well with food because of the acidity and its brightness. Lighter red is also always good and a safe option if you are not sure what you are going to eat.

Rosé is another wine that can be universal with food. If you are having different dishes such as tapas or not sure what to eat, a bottle of rosé is perfect.

If you drink certain wines without food you might not enjoy them, because they might be too sharp, acidic or tannic and will lose their value. Wines such as the very tart Sangiovese, the anic Nebbiolo or the acidic Burgundy require food to balance them out.

If you are not into food and wine pairing, do not worry and choose your favourite wines with any kind of food: The most important thing is to enjoy and trust your own palate.

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog and keep an eye out for the final part of the guide, which will be posted shortly.

Wine Guide: A Guide To Good Wine Drinking, Part 1

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this first part of a three part series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares some of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 1: Vilma’s Wine Drinking Tips

1. Drink Champagne from a White Wine Glass

Champagne is my favourite wine; unfortunately a lot of people forget that champagne is actually a wine and not just some fizzy drink to make a toast with. I love to serve champagne in a white wine glass – even in the Champagne area of France and some of the best restaurants, it isn’t served in a flute. Champagne is one the finest wines in the world and can be enjoyed as such throughout the meal. The wider wine glass softens the bubbles, so you get a better taste of flavours.

Don’t save Champagne for special occasions or celebrations only. It has the highest acidity of all white wines and pairs well with food. Champagne has the combination of breadness, yeast and creaminess and is great with seafood, especially oysters. Certain Champagnes such as Krug, Bollinger and Vilmart are aged in oak, so they develop rich and creamy characteristics and can withstand any type of dish.

It is, however, worth maintaining tradition for toasts – then you can drink from a flute to help the Champagne to stay fizzy, which is great for surviving long speeches!

2. Buy ‘Grower Champagne’

The big champagne houses such as Veuve Clicquot or Moet & Chandon mass produce champagne and make millions of bottles. They do not grow enough grapes to satisfy the demand and have to buy them from the whole Champagne region. The NM letters (Négociant-Manipulant) on the label will tell you that the Champagne house sources the majority of their grapes.

I prefer to drink the ‘grower champagne’ – the Champagne produced by wine makers who grow their own grapes instead of selling them to big houses.

The initials RM (meaning Récoltant-Manipulant) mean that the champagne you bought or ordered was made by growers under their own label. RM champagnes are incredible and exclusive, but often cost less than the famous names.

3. Decant White & Red Wine

Decant old wine to help remove the sediments or if you want to achieve the right temperature or soften the acidity and tannins.

Old wine often has dead yeast or dead protein cells that are totally harmless, but might not be pleasant, on the bottom of your glass. Even white wine has crystals, which can actually be a good thing because the wine wasn’t stabilised with many chemicals or filtered too much and is therefore more natural.

Wine might be too cold when brought straight from the cellar, so decant to achieve the appropriate temperature.

Decant white and red wine to soften the acidity. I decant young white Burgundy wines because the air softens not only the flavour, but it helps to warm the wine up so you can truly enjoy the bouquet. Red Burgundy is served in big bowl glasses because of the same need for air, but some bottles could be far too elegant for decanting; it totally depends on the year or producer.

Red wines with high tannins and high acidity such as Cabernet, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo taste much better decanted.

4. Do Not Hesitate to Refuse Bad Wine in Restaurants

Wine can be spoilt when corked or oxidised. If you’ve never tried bad wine you probably wouldn’t know how horrible it tastes. Wine can be corked when bacteria gets into the cork – it will smell of mold and must.

Wine can get oxidised when left in the light or in a room with temperature variations, because it has to be kept in a stable climate. The air can also get through the cork and oxidise the wine. It will taste like vinegar and will smell of cider rather than wine.

You should return the bad wine, because drinking it would do no justice to the restaurant or the wine label. It’s impossible to enjoy corked or oxidized wine and you will never order the same bottle again.

5. Investigate the Lesser-Known Regions

If you want to find great wines at a good price, look into less famous areas. Let’s say, the ten Cru Beaujolais villages in France. I absolutely love one of the producers Marcel Lapierre from Morgon. Beaujolais have had a bad reputation for many years for making bubble gum like wines, but after you try such producers as Marcel Lapierre, it will become your favourite, I have no doubt.

There are other lesser-known areas in the expensive Burgundy region, such as Giverny, Mercurey or Macon. These places are off the beaten path but you may well be surprised by both the quality and the value of the wines.

Famous producers always make village wines or second label wines, so if you know a good producer, buy their second label wines if you want to save money. For example, Leroy which is a big famous Burgundy name, makes a regular, but great, Bourgogne. There is the Vezelay village next to the famous Chablis region in France where wine makers use the same grape variety (Chardonnay), but sell for much less. Try Domaine de la Cadette wines and you can thank me later!

I love Italy because it is the source of good wines that aren’t expensive at all. There are still lots of small areas that you can discover, such as the Marche region; also Puglia, Campania or Sicily. The grapes are often indigenous to that area and you might not have heard of them.

Spain also holds good value for money. I’ve recently fallen in love with Spanish whites, such as Albarino or Verdejo. Txakoli from the Basque country is unbelievable too – you almost never describe wine as salty, but Txakoli is a bit salty because the grapes grow so close to the ocean.

Of course, you might make a mistake and you’ll never buy that wine again, so play with small amounts of money. I never buy expensive wine, but always investigate areas that are close to famous wine producers, but nowhere near close to their prices. Open a map and look for regions that you haven’t come across before – you might be surprised.

6. Invest in Burgundy

If you want to invest in wine, buy only big names. The best ones come from Bordeaux and Burgundy in France. Barbaresco and Barolo in Italy can sometimes be good for investing, but Bordeaux wines will probably bring the best returns.

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog.

You can click here to read Part 2 of the guide or here to read the final part.