Restaurant Reviews Summary – 19 July 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the critics’ restaurant reviews. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits the ‘iconoclastic’, ‘urban’ and ‘irredeemably modern’ Magdalen Arms in Oxford, which ‘is currently serving the best food of its kind for 50 miles around’ with a ‘dreamy’ menu.

English octopus was ‘cool and beefy, purple and white and sweet as scallop flesh, tender’ ‘and gorgeously native-tasting’, asparagus served with drawn butter was ‘barely hatched and barely cooked, twinkly like emeralds and sweet like Haribo’, hake with potato and chorizo was ‘just dazzling’ with ‘perfect’ fish, the rabbit with mustard and cream and bacon ‘looked so good’, and the pork stew with polenta was ‘another triumph’. 8 out of 10.

AA Gill, The Sunday Times

AA Gill visits Gauthier, a ‘contemporary French restaurant’ in a ‘skinny little townhouse with small, cramped rooms’ in Soho, where ‘the seasoning is underwhelming on everything, as if it were afraid of strong tastes’.

Tomato capellini in green soup, olive-oil tart with vegetables and cold broad-bean soup were all ‘very neat and polite, and exceedingly bland’, a summer truffle risotto was ‘very nice’, John dory with lime was ‘a tiny tranche of fish’, ‘not enough to sustain, just enough to annoy’, lamb was ‘little rosy nuggets of tough and insipid sheep that was too tepid’ and ‘pudding was the best bit’ ‘including a soufflé in a duck egg, which was passing clever’. 2 stars out of 5.

Matthew Fort, The Guardian

Matthew visits The Pump House in Bristol, where ‘there is fine, judicious cooking going on’ with ‘thoughtful dishes well-made from very carefully sourced ingredients’.

The cured pig’s cheek was ‘a light delight, delicately smoky, peppery from the flower, the egg providing just the right degree of ping’, the red mullet, ‘although a magnificent piece of fish’, was ‘muddled on the flavour front’, the wild rabbit ballotine had ‘large chunks of meat in which the rabbit flavours hopped about in agreeable fashion’ and the cherry parfait was ‘decent, but cherry is a difficult and subtle fruit, and some of its piercing deliciousness got lost in translation’. 7 out of 10.

Allan Jenkins, The Observer

Allan visits Gauthier in Soho, where ‘pedigree and hunger for more stars shine through in the quality of the cooking, the relentless pre-starters, the good butters and breads’.

Crab with crustacean jelly was ‘clean-tasting, fresh if not exciting and surprisingly small’, the summer truffle risotto was ‘faultless, with a generous layer of finely sliced truffles’, monkfish with girolles offered ‘satisfying savoury mouthfuls’, but John Dory with lime was ‘a dull piece of fish the size of an After Eight’, guinea fowl fell ‘from the bone’, duck egg soufflé was ‘delightfully light’ and a signature Golden Louis XV chocolate and praline stole ‘the show’. No rating given.

John Walsh, The Independent

John visits Café Luc in Marylebone, which ‘has bags of style and its chef’ ‘has a rare eye for beautiful display as well as flavour’ with ‘terrific’ food.

A crab tian was ‘a little work of art’ and ‘tasted good’, Scottish scallops ‘were, unusually, steamed in a wine marinière rather than seared in a pan’, red mullet served with a bouillabaisse reduction was ‘a gorgeous combination that tasted as good as it looked’, and organic chicken supreme with champagne, wild mushrooms and pappardelle was ‘an irresistible combination’. 4 stars out of 5 for the food and service; 3 stars out of 5 for the ambience.

Matthew Norman, The Telegraph

Matthew visits Abu Zaad, ‘one of Britain’s tiny handful of Syrian restaurants’ in Shephard’s Bush, which is ‘firmly in the bargain basement gaudy Middle Eastern style’ where ‘the food is immaculately fresh, and usually well prepared and cooked’.

Fatoush ‘zinged with lemony, minty sharpness’ and the tabbouleh was ‘superb’, Halloumi was ‘fried to an alluring brown finish’, Foul Mutalla (broad beans in olive oil, garlic and coriander) was ‘a bit sub-par’, minced lamb with aubergine and yogurt was ‘delicious and aesthetically pleasing’, the chicken was ‘glorious, all juicy and crispy and savoury’ and okra with lamb cubes was a ‘cinnamony delight’. 8 out of 10.

Elfreda Pownall, The Telegraph

Elfreda visits La Becasse in Ludlow where ‘fine dining doesn’t get much finer’.

Tiny clams cloaked in foam and sitting on a green-flecked pasta square were ‘fine but underwhelming’, goat’s cheese salad ‘tasted like pudding’, halibut with a parmesan crust was ‘perfectly cooked’, the chicken was ‘pink on the breast, and pinker on the leg’, a dessert of poached peach with a puréed rice pudding was ‘really good’ and a chocolate and beetroot cake was ‘good, but the uncooked vegetal strings surrounding it was one beetroot too many’. 5 out of 10.

Marina O’Loughlin, The Metro

Marina visits Viajante, ‘the new project from Portugal’s wild Nuno Mendes’, which ‘is well worth the trip east to Bethnal Green for anyone who considers themselves a foodie’.

A whole roasted broad bean pod was ‘filled with its peeled beans and São Jorge cheese’, baguettes were ‘sensational’ ‘with almost caramelly butter’, charred leeks, white asparagus, hazelnuts and milk skin with grey blobs of ‘leek ash mayonnaise’ was ‘a sublime vegetables-only dish’, and pork neck and langoustine was ‘a delectable’ ‘number’. 5 stars out of 5.

Rich Major, the Grumbling Gourmet

Rich visits Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, where ‘service throughout was flawless’ with ‘attentive, knowledgeable’ staff.

Herb parcels in filo pastry were ‘deliciously salty and very more-ish’, an ‘amuse of heirloom tomato mousse’ was ‘less inspiring though a handy palate cleanser’, Scottish langoustine salad with coral jus was ‘some of the sweetest shellfish I’ve ever had’, the roasted rib, saddle and kidney of milk fed lamb, served with ‘perfectly cooked’ roasted purple artichokes and new potatoes was ‘a revelation’, ‘technically one of the finest takes on this dish I’ve had, with a wonderful clarity of flavour’, and the roasted native lobster with seasonal vegetables was ‘simple perfection in ingredients and preparation’. No rating given.

To make a reservation, please contact Bon Vivant on 0207 278 0642 or please visit http://www.bonvivant.co.uk

Restaurant Reviews Summary – 12 July 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the critics’ restaurant reviews. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits the Daylesford Organic Farmshop Café in The Cotswolds, which is ‘glistering white with long rows of tables dressed with little pots of thyme and rosemary’ with ‘multi-ethnic waiting staff beautifully well-informed and solicitous’.

A plate of three salads was ‘in the rudest of health, glistening with summer colour’, the gazpacho was ‘good, plain’ and a ploughman’s of gammon, cheddar and pork pie was ‘grade A’. 8 out of 10.

AA Gill, The Sunday Times

AA Gill visits The Mount Street Deli in Mayfair, which ‘has been designed, devised and stocked by someone who has never, ever been to another sandwich bar or cafe in the world’.

The lobster ‘tasted of a dumb pinkness, luckily overcome by a small packet of mayonnaise’ and came with a couscous salad that was ‘coarse’ with ‘small, earwax balls of mozzarella’, poached salmon with beans ‘could only have been welcomed by a shop assistant on an extreme diet’, a lemon meringue ‘tasted like an egg poached in Jif’ and the coffee was ‘ghastly’. Online rating of 1 star out of 5; printed rating of no stars out of 5 for the food; 5 stars out of 5 for the atmosphere.

Sam Wollaston, The Guardian

Sam visits Wabi in Horsham, Sussex, where ‘the food isn’t bad’ but there’s ‘no atmosphere’, ‘no warmth, no passion, no generosity, no care’.

Edamame were ‘nice, firm and salty’, miso soup and yellowfin tuna sashimi were both ‘perfectly respectable’, vegetarian and prawn tempura were ‘more like closing time at the chippy’, the duck confit in a peanut sauce was ‘OK, but there’s not enough of it’, the sushi had ‘all the raw appeal of an M&S party pack’. No rating given.

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Jay had ‘an enjoyable meal’ where ‘the food’ ‘is good, in a very precise, French way’ at Brasserie Joel at the Park Plaza Hotel, which ‘looks like a club class airline lounge’ and was ‘full of solo diners’.

A gazpacho, with a scoop of tomato sorbet, was ‘vivid and light and fresh’, a ‘dark, sticky’ dish of sweetbreads, roast cèpes and ‘beautifully turned’ roast potatoes was ‘better still’, a lobster Cobb salad ‘felt overly chucked together for such a louche ingredient’, a side of gnocchi soufflé was ‘light and fluffy and crisp’ and a rum baba ‘wasn’t quite lush or syrup-soaked enough’. No rating given.

Tracey MacLeod, The Independent

Tracey visits Table in Brighton, which ‘on paper’ ‘looks like the perfect modern restaurant’ and ‘despite its slightly bland appearance, feels bespoke’.

A bowl of devilled whitebait came ‘with shaved fennel, orange and red onion’, a smoked trout salad ‘fell short’, ‘a Middle Eastern-inspired’ dish of chicken and couscous was ‘exactly the sort of food you want to eat in a heatwave’ and ‘tasted actively fantastic’, a slice of chocolate nemesis was ‘deliriously good’ and mini doughnuts with brandy-soaked cherries and yoghurt were ‘naughty, but nice’. 3 stars out of 5 for the food; 4 stars out of 5 for the service; 2 stars out of 5 for the ambience.

Lisa Markwell, The Independent on Sunday

Lisa has two visits to the Dock Kitchen, ‘a pop-up restaurant that never popped back down’ in Notting Hill, which has ‘ultra-chic furniture’.

On the first visit, service was ‘painfully slow’, tenerume soup was ‘cool and a little less generous than our neighbours’’, seabass cooked in crazy water was ‘all bones and bits’ and a cherry granita was ‘delicious’. 12 out of 20.

On the second visit, bull’s heart tomatoes were ‘good’ with ‘soft texture’, ‘bullish flavour, and scattered with pretty little edible flowers’, griddled salt-marsh lamb chops with smoked green wheat, aubergine and tahini packed ‘a punch’, ‘the lamb tender and juicy’ and the wheat ‘frikking good’, Cornish yellow chicken in milk, sage, lemon peel and white wine was ‘a thing of subtlety’ and a Lebanese pistachio ice-cream and a white peach crostata were ‘utterly delicious’. 16 out of 20.

Matthew Norman, The Telegraph

Matthew visits The Olde Bell, a ‘prettily whitewashed and ancient “modern coaching inn” in rural Berkshire’, with a ‘daily-changing menu’ that ‘looked appealing’ but had ‘patchy’ ‘execution’.

Chorizo with a ‘runny’ duck egg ‘cleverly drizzled with chilli oil’ was ‘a nice idea well rendered’, “rack of lamb” was ‘four large and fatty chops of adequate meat’ ‘perfectly cooked’ but ‘clumpingly presented’, the Aylesbury duck breast was a ‘shocker’, ‘both undercooked and dry’, and an Eton Mess was ‘decent’. 3 out of 10.

Zoe Williams, The Telegraph

Zoe ‘loved’ Bar Boulud, where ‘the atmosphere is informal but eventful’ and ‘the menu reads like a dream’.

The petit aioli was ‘so beautiful’, the crab salad had ‘a nice, comforting base of avocado’, the ‘Frenchie’ burger was ‘magnificent’, the beef ‘had a wonderful tenderness’, the agneau à la tunisienne was ‘intensely, earthily flavourful’ and a coupe de fruits exotiques was ‘just right’. 9.5 out of 10.

Fay Maschler, The Evening Standard

Fay visits Redhook in Clerkenwell, which has ‘an agreeable industrial feeling’, where the menu is ‘fundamentally straightforward’ or ‘dull’.
A crab linguine was ‘delicious’ but ‘inappropriately rich’, Redhook salad was ‘a peculiar assembly of runner beans, peas and toasted garlic’, the T-bone steak was ‘tender and with discernible flavour’, the ‘chilli-driven dipping sauce gave’ the Canadian lobster ‘some much-needed personality’ and seared halibut steak was ‘so stiff and desiccated’ ‘it was a shockingly poor piece of fish’. 2 stars out of 5.

Marina O’Loughlin, The Metro

Marina visits Battery in Canary Wharf, which ‘is all rather dazzling… except, perhaps, for the food part’.

Starters were ‘weird’, a ‘bijou serving’ of monkfish had been ‘bludgeoned with cumin and dried apricot’, but a sirloin steak was ‘one of the best I’ve tasted in London recently: ripe, smoky and bloody, tender but full of well-hung-beefy flavour’. 2 stars out of 5.

Chris Pople, Cheese and Biscuits

Chris visits Cantina Laredo in Covent Garden, which has ‘full-on’ ‘ludicrously bold’ pricing with ‘enthusiastic but slightly odd’ service.
Camaron Poblano Asada had ‘a wonderful aroma and the beef itself tasted almost as good as I’ve had outside of the top London steakhouses’, but needed ‘something a little more from a dish costing £19’, Enchiladas Veracruz had ‘nice fresh tortillas and’ ‘a genuinely good tomatillo sauce’ but ‘the chicken inside the wraps was overcooked and dry’, a flan dessert ‘tasted fine, but it was just a flan’ and Strawberry Buñuelos was ‘better, but still fairly dull’. 5 out of 10.

To make a reservation, please contact Bon Vivant on 0207 278 0642 or please visit http://www.bonvivant.co.uk

Restaurant Reviews Summary – 5 July 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the critics’ restaurant reviews. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits Brasserie Joël, a ‘clackety, lacquered space, doomily red-lit’, in the vast Westminster Bridge Park Plaza hotel where the cooking is a ‘honeyed dream of modern, produce-driven London-European food’ with ‘wonderful’ service.

Artichoke soup was ‘earthy and aromatic’, sweetbreads with mushrooms and veal cheeks were ‘bulbous and sweet’, gnocchi soufflé was ‘unbelievable’, and the milk-fed lamb shoulder was ‘sweet and mild’. 6 out of 10.

Kate Spicer, The Sunday Times

Kate Spicer visits The Masons Arms, ‘a bit of’ a ‘characterless box’ in a ‘typical sleepy village’ in north Devon.

The smoked duck starter was ‘cold, tender’, the foie gras was ‘warm, caramelised, moussy and rich’, halibut with a potato crust and cider cream was ‘light’ and ‘cooked perfectly’, but lamb chops were ‘not pink, but undercooked’. 3 stars out of 5.

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Jay visits Obsidian in Manchester for ‘dull food and slow service’ in an empty restaurant with a limited lunch menu, which is ‘pretty plain modern British bistro food’.

A goat’s cheese mousse with Parma ham and peas, and a salad of black pudding, apple and soft-poached egg ‘weren’t bad. Nor were they great’. Slow-cooked lamb shoulder was ‘fine, a solid round of well-braised, well-seasoned meat’, “market-fresh fish grill” was ‘not a lot for £18’ and a Manchester tart had ‘a very good crisp pastry shell’ and ‘some nice peaks of meringue’. No rating given.

John Walsh, The Independent

John visits Field and Fork at the Pallant House Gallery in Chichester, which has ‘superior, perfectly judged, confidently flavoured cooking’ and ‘indefatigably charming’ staff.

A starter of smoked eel was ‘tender, moist and yummy’, a tagine of quail was ‘cooked to a perfect tightness of texture’, main courses were ‘equally rich and substantial’, including a jambonette of black leg chicken that was ‘a hugely elaborate structure’ and ‘really delicious’, and a slow-roasted pork belly that was ‘dark, intense, mysterious and delicious’. 4 stars out of 5 for the food and service; 3 stars out of 5 for the ambience.

Zoe Williams, The Telegraph

Zoe was ‘not so impressed by the food’ at Gordon Ramsay’s Petrus, where ‘the smell of luxury is stronger, considerably stronger, than the smell of any of the food’.

The pan-fried mackerel fillet with tomato chutney and niçoise salad was ‘fine’ but the ‘tomato chutney tasted like Dolmio’, the pressed foie gras with confit and smoked duck was ‘very good’ but ‘it lacked impact’, the pan-fried sea bream was ‘fine’, marinated pineapple with a coconut panna cotta was ‘all right’ but the fennel crème brûlée was ‘distinct’ and ‘perfect’. 6.5 out of 10.

David Sexton, The Evening Standard

David visits ’28-50 Wine Workshop’, which has a ‘shortish menu of brasserie food, fairly priced’, with ‘more than 30 wines available by the glass’, but the atmosphere is ‘a bit underground car park’.

Pan-fried ballotine of ham hock and black pudding was ‘fibrous’ and ‘flavoursome’, gazpacho with prawn salad was ‘an oily, cold soup, containing a mound of prawns surely out of a packet’, the lamb shoulder was ‘pleasant enough’, a fillet of farmed salmon was ‘served in a disconcertingly orangey vinaigrette sauce’ and the seasonal vegetables were ‘far too buttery’. 2 stars out of 5.

Marina O’Loughlin, The Metro

Marina visits the ‘personality free’ Roux at Parliament Square, which is ‘a sea of cream and beige’.

An ‘amuse’ of scallops and oysters ‘in lemony, buttery emulsion’ was ‘excellent if a bit snotty’, sea trout with ‘almost Christmassy’ spiced white polenta was ‘flawlessly cooked’, pork belly was a ‘cheap cut’, and puddings were ‘a bit weak’, including ‘under-lemoned’ lemon tart and ‘dull’ apple mille-feuille. 3 stars out of 5.

Lizzie, Hollow Legs

Lizzie visits Michael Nadra, ‘on a leafy suburban street dotted with Mercedes and BMWs’, in Chiswick, where ‘the ambience’ ‘seems geared heavily towards dating couples’.

A risotto with lobster and rocket was ‘silky smooth’ and ‘perfectly balanced between comforting and luxurious’, ‘impeccably cooked’ roast cod with summer veg, king prawn veloute and roasted garlic was ‘a beautiful plate’ but ‘somehow it didn’t gel properly’, and the Greek yoghurt sorbet was ‘stand-out’, ‘creamy and without the tang you usually get from frozen yoghurt’. No rating given.

To make a reservation, please contact Bon Vivant on 0207 278 0642 or please visit http://www.bonvivant.co.uk

Restaurant Reviews Summary – 7 June 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the critics’ restaurant reviews. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits Roux at Parliament Square, which is ‘new and posh and expensive’, where ‘the menu is concise to the point of macho’ and the cooking ‘perfect, precise’ and ‘strangely effortless’.

‘Sweet’ langoustine came with ‘a green pea mousse of wonderful luminescence and freshness’, roasted quail was ‘woody and light’, Landes foie gras, ‘most marvellous of all’, was ‘a perfect French springtime starter’, veal was ‘cooked pink, sweet, perfectly fine’, but the accompanying sweetbread was ‘astounding: large, glistening and dense’, and the tenderloin and belly of Berkshire black pork was ‘almost as good’. 8 out of 10.

AA Gill, The Times

AA Gill visits Colony in Marylebone, which ‘serves ordinary Indian food for an astonishing price’ where ‘little plates of food that you can share’ is a ‘stupid concept’.

The chicken tikka was ‘a pair of small thighs’, the sea bass was ‘a square of fish transplant in a sauce of rendered Pritt Stick’, the poussin ‘bobbed in the subtle juice of Brylcreem’, mutton was ‘disintegrating lamb in a brown sauce’ and veal ‘came in the same boot-polish and Oxo ooze’. 2 stars out of 5.

Matthew Norman, The Guardian

Matthew visits Bar Boulud, a ‘so-whattish’ restaurant where the menu ‘is Franco-American meaty’.

The charcuterie was ‘nice enough, if unmemorable’, the piggie burger was ‘all a bit nothing’ with ‘decent frites’, and a Beaujolaise sausage ‘seemed less a sausage than a loose coalition struggling to coexist amicably under the one skin’. No rating given.

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Jay visits the ‘simple and unpretentious’ Curlew in East Sussex, where ‘the food is great’ and ‘each dish designed around a single ingredient that gets a role commensurate with its billing’.

A duck egg had ‘been cooked slowly until both white and yolk’ were ‘a gel’, slices of ‘just-warm’ smoked haddock came with ‘impeccable hollandaise’, cuttlefish came ‘with potatoes and cubes of deep-fried black pudding’, chops (short rib) had been ‘slow-cooked for two days’ ‘then darkly glazed and served with dripping-fried chips’, the duck was ‘a little overdone’ but ‘still tasted properly of animal’, and desserts were ‘up to the standard of the rest’, including ‘superb’ orange-flavoured burnt cream’. No rating given.

John Walsh, The Independent

John visits Chapter One in Kent, where the ‘cooking combines vertiginous sophistication with fabulous flavours’ with a ‘relaxed, nostalgic feel’.

A smoked eel with beetroots and celeriac was ‘delicious’, salmon gravadlax was ‘thick-sliced and happily accessorised with poached quail’s eggs and a fennel salad’, and a ‘compression of pig’s head’ ‘looked beautiful and tasted intensely piggy’.

Pan-fried wild halibut was ‘sweet and moist’, veal rump was ‘pink and nondescript’, sweetbreads were ‘divinely crispy’ and veal cheek was ‘a revelation – astonishingly brown and fibrous’. For dessert, iced peanut parfait with strawberry sorbet was ‘a stunner’, the blood-orange trifle was ‘rather ordinary’ and the hot chocolate fondant with vanilla ice-cream was ‘close to paradise’. 5 stars for the food; 3 stars for the ambience; 4 stars for the service.

Amol Rajan, The Independent on Sunday

Amol visits Bar Boulud where ‘the lack of natural light is unpleasant’ but ‘the fixed-price menu must be among the best value in London’.

The poulpe grillé ‘did not taste fresh enough for its £9.50’, ‘Chop-Chop’ salad ‘never becomes more than the sum of its parts’, the coarse pâté had ‘just the right bite-ability’, the ‘Yankee’ burger had ‘a punchy flavour’, the seafood linguini with taggiasca olives was ‘suitably syrupy with the flavour of preserved lemon rind’ and a bittersweet chocolate mousse was ‘superb’. 14 out of 20.

Zoe Williams, The Telegraph

Zoe visits Viajante, which is ‘more of an event than a restaurant’.

A crostini with olives and almonds was ‘pretty nice’, smoked aubergine ‘over a sort of soy-milk gelée’ was ‘smoky and amazing’, squid carpaccio with ink granita was ‘more considered than most books I’ve read’, a skate wing with a crispy yeast topping was ‘gorgeous, rich and profoundly succulent’, the pig’s neck ‘had great depth’ and ‘an expert’ molten chocolate pudding came with ‘an intense splodge of blackcurrant’, which ‘was great’. 8.5 out of 10.

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph

Jasper visits the ‘delightful’ Bistrot Bruno Loubet, which has ‘wonderful food in convivial surroundings’.

A revised Lyonnaise salad comes with ‘stupendous Beaujolais dressing that wows’, a beetroot ravioli was ‘also quirky’, ‘straightforward’ pan-fried pollock had ‘been lifted’ with the ‘saltiness’ of squid ink and the ‘bitterness’ of celeriac purée, and confit lamb shoulder ‘with nicely chargrilled red pepper’ sounded ‘like a conventional Mediterranean dish’ but was ‘an international hit’. 8 out of 10.

David Sexton, The Evening Standard

David visits Brasserie Joël at the Park Plaza Hotel where the menu is ‘concise, underwritten and appealing’ with ‘an approachable’ wine list and ‘attentive and polished’ service.

Zucchini flower was ‘delicately steamed’ and came with a ‘flavoursome shrimpy mousse’, foie gras au torchon was ‘a nice fat disc’, hand-dived Scallops were ‘simply enjoyable’, suckling pork belly was ‘a blast’, but the accompanying ‘pork feet cannelloni’ was ‘the highlight’ – ‘a gratinated parcel of hoggish deliciousness, so gelatinous, rich and earthy’ – and the Rum Baba was ‘crazily alcoholic’. 3 stars out of 5.

Marina O’Loughlin, The Metro

Marina has ‘a hoot’ at The Milroy with its ‘old-school staff and fine food’.

Seared yellowfin tuna on cauliflower and basil and spiced tomato coulis was ‘unsurprisingly, the least successful dish’, a salad of thinly sliced, marinated beetroot with goat’s cheese was ‘sensational’, Savoy cabbage with bacon and buttery carrots were ‘ace’, but the chateaubriand was ‘a little flavourless and overcooked’. 3 stars out of 5.

Gourmet Traveller

The Gourmet Traveller visits the Harwood Arms, a ‘spacious and homely pub’ ‘located in a sleepy residential street in Fulham’, where ‘the cooking is still notches above your regular pub in both creativity and execution’.

A venison scotch egg was ‘perfection’ with ‘an incredible orange-yolked wonder of a soft boiled egg’, longhorn veal schnitzel ‘looked suitably summery’ but was ‘just not that exciting’, grilled salted ox tongue was ‘well executed’ but ‘it didn’t quite mesh on the palate’, beef cheeks braised in stout with Herefordshire Snails was ‘very satisfying’ but ‘it was not exactly earth-shattering’ and a buttermilk pudding was ‘quite delightful’. No rating given.

To make a reservation, please contact Bon Vivant on 0207 278 0642 or please visit http://www.bonvivant.co.uk

Restaurant Reviews Summary – 31 May 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the critics’ restaurant reviews. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits Gauthier Soho for ‘unarguably great cooking’ in a ‘grand old higgledy-piggledy Soho townhouse’ with ‘great competence and charm in the staff’.

Carrots that were ‘of unfeasible brittleness and scent’ and a raw asparagus head with a grain mustard dip were ‘worth the entrance fee alone’, poached duck egg looked ‘like a perfect little Chinese dumpling’ and ‘slivers of rarest Angus beef’ were ‘sexily seared’ and ‘stunning’. 9 out of 10.

AA Gill, The Times

AA Gill had ‘the best burger in London’ at Bar Boulud, in ‘an odd room’ where the staff are ‘excellent’.

The charcuterie was ‘good’, salami and ham were ‘well-made’, a beer-braised featherblade was ‘an intensely reduced slow-cooked shredded bit of beef’, grilled lamb chops with tabbouleh were ‘fine’, halibut with asparagus ‘wasn’t’ and the piggie burger, ‘with the genius of barbecued pulled pork on top’, was ‘brilliant’. 3 stars out of 5 for the restaurant; 10 stars for the burger.

Matthew Norman, The Guardian

Matthews visits the ‘inconsistent’ Viajante, a ‘clinically faux-funky space’ in East London.

Squid tartare, pickled radish and samphire ‘tasted of nothing’, beetroot and crab with apple was ‘livelier’, roast celeriac ‘came with tangy San Jorge cheese’, strips of lemon sole with mustard gnocchi ‘would have been great had he not coated them with yeast’ and ‘the highlight’ was ‘a startlingly well-balanced’ and ‘brilliant’ dish of ‘sweet and tender Iberian pork’ ‘matched with savoy cabbage, grated egg and crunchy fried capers’. 5 out of 10.

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Jay visits the ‘great’ Bar Boulud, which ‘has an energising rush and clatter’ despite the ‘insulting’ and ‘pointless’ two hour time limit on tables.

The terrines and the charcuterie showed that ‘this is a kitchen that knows what it’s doing with pressed bits of slow-cooked animal’, home-cured ham was ‘a little indifferent’ but thinly sliced salami were ‘salty and fatty in the right way’. Slow-cooked shoulder of lamb had a ‘deep’ flavour, the “piggy” burger proved ‘that only American-based chefs make’ burgers ‘well’, a Grand Marnier soufflé was ‘fine enough’ and a mint ice cream and chocolate combo was ‘impressive’. No rating given.

John Walsh, The Independent

John visits Bar Boulud, where ‘attention to the old-fashioned virtue of flavoursome cooking is faultless’.

The charcuterie was ‘blissful, reeking with coarse country flavour, dense with alcohol’, a tourte de canard was ‘delicious’, the “beer braised feather blade” ‘was tender enough to eat with a plastic fork’ and ‘sensational’, with ‘gorgeous’ accompanying baby carrots and confited shallots, and the coq au vin was ‘also a triumph’. 4 stars out of 5 for the food and service; 2 stars out of 5 for the ambience.

Toby Young, The Independent on Sunday

Toby visits Roux at Parliament Square.

A square onion crisp topped with anchovy and a little doughnut stuffed with foie gras were ‘both melt-in-your-mouth good’ amuse bouches, chicken liver and foie-gras parfait with poached rhubarb was an ‘exquisite’ ‘combination’, pork belly accompanied by heritage carrots, Pommery mousseline and some creamed potato was ‘perfectly executed’, a strawberry sorbet and strawberry panna cotta, topped with a meringue triangle, was ‘a show-stopper’ and a chocolate brownie with marshmallow and caramel ice-cream didn’t ‘disappoint’. 17 out of 20.

Zoe Williams, The Telegraph

Zoe visits the Canton Arms, a ‘lovely old pub’ in Stockwell.

Game terrine was ‘so gamey’ and ‘100 per cent fantastic’, an Arbroath smokie was ‘delicious’, lupin seeds were ‘satisfyingly chewy with a thick, bendy skin’, pork tonnato was ‘wonderful’, the rabbit stew ‘flaked off the bone exquisitely, the meat was refined but full of depth’ and a chocolate pot was ‘intensely stylish’. 9 out of 10.

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph

Jasper visits the ‘functional yet stylish’ and ‘fun’ Paramount at Centre Point, where ‘it’s worth stomaching the food to drink in the view’.

Salad with sardines was ‘generous with tasty leaves and red onion rings’ with a ‘weak’ pesto sauce, a rump of beef was ‘considerably smaller than the jug of’ ‘béarnaise sauce’ and five-spice monkfish with creamy, toothy saffron risotto and crab spring roll was ‘the best dish’. 6 out of 10.

Fay Maschler, The Evening Standard

Fay visits Roux at Parliament Square, with ‘slightly doggedly imaginative’ cooking in ‘listless, prudent surroundings’.

Salmon with dressed crab was ‘lovely’, ‘as was langoustine butter-poached and served with Jabugo ham’, roasted lamb served with Jersey Royals was ‘much appreciated’, wild sea trout was ‘woefully overcooked’ and lemon tart with yoghurt sorbet ‘lacked the zing that lemon curd should possess’. 3 stars out of 5.

Marina O’Loughlin, The Metro

Marina visits Bar Boulud, ‘a slick, delicious operation from a man at the top of his game’ where ‘only the decor leaves a bad taste’.

Burgers were ‘great: meat loosely packed and juicy, buns retaining their integrity, frites crisp, rustling and addictively salty’, boudin blanc was ‘silky’ and ‘luxurious, scallops were ‘sweet and caramelly’ and the charcuterie boards were ‘best of all’. 3 stars out of 5.

To make a reservation, please contact Bon Vivant on 0207 278 0642 or please visit http://www.bonvivant.co.uk

Restaurant Reviews Summary – 10 May 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the critics’ restaurant reviews. Enjoy!

Hugo Rifkind, The Times

Hugo visits the ‘too slick for its own good’ Colony, where everything ‘tasted pretty good’.

Poppadums were ‘rather nice’, a ‘cold, soupy’ amuse-bouche ‘smelled a bit of drains and wee’, spinach and paneer pancakes were ‘moist and crumbly in just the right places’, the dark tarka dhal was ‘great, although so rich they could have stewed it in chocolate’ and the chicken tikka masala was ‘exactly chicken tikka masala and did absolutely nothing else’. No rating given.

AA Gill, The Sunday Times

AA Gill visits the ‘playfully bright and basic’ Terre a Terre in Brighton for ‘incredibly good food’ with ‘enormous, sometimes incoherent flavours and a jumble sale of textures and temperatures’.

Corn cakes and mashed avocado was ‘a brilliant combination of competing flavours’, wild mushroom arancini came with ‘an unbelievably, almost unbearably intense’ shiitake brew, Idli had ‘bright and loud’ flavours and a ginger parkin cake with oatmeal ice cream was ‘one of the best puddings I’ve had all year’. 5 stars out of 5 for the food; 3 stars out of 5 for the atmosphere.

Matthew Norman, The Guardian

Matthew reviews Petrus, where the room ‘squeaks inaudibly beneath the weight of ambient cliché’ and where ‘the food is as bland as the room’.

An onion velouté amuse-bouche was ‘delectably intense’, pan-fried scallops with cauliflower, anchovy and beurre noisette ‘were the sweetest, juiciest, nuttiest oceanic little orbs you could imagine’, roast curried pollack fillet tasted ‘of nothing’ and foie gras mosaic was ‘nice enough, but hardly memorable’.

Main courses were ‘dismal’, including boiled beef cheek in an ‘indistinct consommé’ that ‘had half the depth of flavour of boiled white rice’, but desserts were ‘superb’, including an ‘unforgettably magnificent’ chocolate sphere. No rating given.

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Jay ‘had a very nice lunch’ at Buon Apps in West Yorkshire with ‘some thoroughly pleasing, very solidly prepared dishes’ but ‘nothing was thrillingly different’.

A red-wine risotto was ‘fine’, the salami and smoked hams ‘might have been a little chillier than is ideal, but the ingredients were good’, the chicken diavola was ‘a fair enough piece of chicken baked in a mildly piquant tomato sauce’ and a tiramisu ‘did honour to the name while clogging the arteries’. No rating given.

John Walsh, The Independent

John visits the ‘lovely’ Tangerine Dream Café at the Chelsea Physic Garden, which has ‘a marvellously sure way with food’ and a ‘relaxed feel about it’.

A mixed salad was ‘a cornucopia of tastes’ that ‘was a bit special’, a steak was ‘delicious’ with ‘wondrous’ tiny new potatoes, a duck confit was ‘as perfect as I’ve ever come across’, the sea bass, ‘though fresh and summery, was a little under-flavoured’ and desserts were ‘very fine’. 3 stars out of 5 for the food; 5 stars out of 5 for the service and ambience.

Lisa Markwell, The Independent on Sunday

Lisa visits Guerilla Burgers, a ‘perky operation’ with ‘genuinely helpful’ staff where ‘the burgers are the worst thing’.

Starters of crayfish cocktail, three-bean veggie chilli and chicken bites were ‘all punchy and fresh-tasting’, the hot dog ‘tasted pretty authentic’, sweet-potato fries were ‘crisp and hot’ but the burger was ‘modest’ and ‘meh’ with ‘flimsy’ buns. 13 out of 20.

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph

Jasper visits The Vanilla Pod in Marlow, which ‘is lucky to have a “local” of this quality’ with a chef that ‘can flourish a decent CV’.

Butternut squash risotto was ‘nicely creamy but could do with another flavour to complement the sweet squash’, the onion and vanilla velouté was ‘utterly excruciating’, rump of lamb with white beans and port sauce was ‘a beautifully presented dish of complex construction’ with ‘tender, thinly carved lamb’, pan-fried gilt head sea bream was ‘a classic’ ‘perfectly executed’, and puddings were ‘better still’, particularly a bitter chocolate mousse and pistachio frangipane. 7 out of 10.

Fay Maschler, The Evening Standard

Fay visits Viajante, Nuno Mendes’s latest ‘place to try with friends’, which has ‘a revolutionary feel in the world of ambitious, discursive, expensive dining’ with ‘notably upbeat, friendly, if occasionally incomprehensible waiters’.

Along with ‘the best bread I have had in ages’, ‘dishes that stood out’ included squid tartare with samphire and squid ink granita, roasted celeriac with tapioca and Saõ Jorge cheese, ‘delectable’ skate with mustard gnocchi, a ‘tantalisingly dainty’ slice of beef served with miso that ‘packed a punch’ and a sorbet of lemon and Thai basil ‘that exploded with flavour.’ 3 stars out of 5.

Marina O’Loughlin, The Metro

Marina visits ‘unassuming little’ Koya in Soho, whish is ‘not much to look at’ ‘but it’s so worth venturing inside to discover what all the fuss is about’ as ‘they know their noodles’.

The noodles were ‘sensational’, including ‘heavenly’ buta miso atsu-atsu (pork noodles in a milky miso and pork broth), the ‘slurpy, lipstick-destroying, chewy suppleness’ of cold zaru udon was a ‘new definition of addictive’, and a salad of tender leaves and deep-fried lotus root was ‘terrifically good’. 4 stars out of 5.

Laissez Fare

Laissez Fare visits Arbutus, where ‘there is nothing out of the ordinary in terms of the techniques or ingredients’ but offers ‘very good food at very fair prices’ in a ‘fairly relaxed’ setting with ‘good’ service.

Crisp pork cheek and celeriac remoulade was ‘attractively presented’ and ‘had a lovely crisp topping’, curly kale and potato soup was ‘a very memorable soup’, the lamb breast was ‘well-cooked and the fat – of which there was a lot – dissolved beautifully and added a nice richness to the dish’, and the floating island dessert was ‘presented simply and beautifully’ and ‘delicious’. 7.5 out of 10 for the food; 7 out of 10 for the service and ambience.

For further information on Bon Vivant, please visit www.bonvivant.co.uk

Summary of Restaurant Reviews – 3 May 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the critics’ restaurant reviews. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits Fig, a ‘small’ ‘and dimly lit’ restaurant ‘nestling on a quiet residential street’ in Islington for ‘molecular gastronomy gone cosy and local’.

Smoked bone marrow was ‘extraordinary stuff’, bream ‘had a beautifully light touch: sweet and fruity flesh with a golden crisp to it’, the sweetbreads were ‘extraordinary’ and a plate of cheese was ‘very good’. 7 out of 10.

AA Gill, The Sunday Times

AA Gill reviews The Halibut, ‘a good restaurant, an exceptional one in Buckingham’ ‘that’s exceptional value’ where ‘the menu is short and has a flourish of international sophistication’.

Gbegiri soup, made with beans and dried fish, was ‘wonderful’, fish and chips ‘were very, very nice’ and chicken jollof was ‘made with a vibrant authenticity, bright flavours, big smiling mouthfuls’. 3 stars out of 5 for the food; 4 stars out of 5 for the atmosphere.

Pascal Wyse, The Guardian

Pascal visits the ‘nearly convincing’ Forbury’s in Reading, which has ‘excellent’ service but fights ‘the inkling that it might once have been a conference venue’.

Boudin of squid was ‘spongy and light, but had a hint of bitterness’, Cornish sole à la meunière was ‘tasty’ and ‘coated well’, duck confit ‘hadn’t crisped up, but the meat was moist and full flavoured’ and crème brûlée with coconut ‘felt’ ‘as if there wasn’t quite the right balance between sweet and sour’. No rating given.

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Jay visits Bristol Lido, in a ‘glass-walled and sun-drenched building’ in Bristol, where the menu, ‘which takes much of its inspiration from southern Europe’, ‘is a corker’.

The bread was ‘marvellous’, ravioli of venison was ‘very fine’, the wood-roasted fillet of grey mullet was ‘glossy and crisp and the flesh still falling apart on the fork’, a slow-roast shoulder of lamb was ‘a big, paunchy, self-assured dish’, rum and raisin ice cream was ‘boozy and rich’ and salted butter caramel ice cream ‘had that perfect balance of sweet, salt and lightly burnt’. No rating given.

Tracey MacLeod, The Independent

Tracey visits the ‘expensively neutral’ Petrus, where ‘there may not be anything dazzling about the food’ but it is ‘the ideal venue for a special occasion’.

Amuse bouche of fried fingers of polenta and onion velouté were ‘nothing too interesting’ offering ‘refined accomplishment over excitement’, watercress soup lacked ‘pepperiness’, tartar of yellow-fin tuna was ‘beautiful, but marginally underpowered’, roasted duck breast with confit leg was ‘fine’, roast lobster tail with braised pork belly ‘created a surf’n'turf combo of memorable pointlessness’ and desserts, including ‘a glossy chocolate sphere’, ‘showed a welcome flash of exuberance’. 3 stars out of 5 for the food and ambience; 4 stars out of 5 for the service.

Toby Young, The Independent on Sunday

Toby visits the ‘utilitarian’, ‘friendly’ ‘and very child-friendly’ Farmcafé & Foodmarket in Suffolk, ‘the best’ ‘local farm café’ ‘by a country mile’.

The Suffolk breakfast was ‘the kind of breakfast men dream about on the gallows’, with ‘fat and succulent’ sausages ‘full of rich, meaty flavour’ and ‘fantastic’ bacon, ‘not too salty, but not too bland, either’. 15 out of 20.

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph

Jasper visits The Bingham in Richmond for ‘complex cooking masterfully executed’ ‘served with precision and pomp’ in a ‘grown up yet cool atmosphere’.

Smoked haddock risotto was ‘a buttery pleasure’, ‘succulent’ roast quail had ‘one lady purring with satisfaction’, slow-cooked suckling pig and seared scallop was ‘a lovely coupling’, ‘beautifully golden’ roast halibut was ‘a riot of tastes’ and puddings, including a rhubarb vacherin were ‘equally ambitious’. 8 out of 10.

Fay Maschler, The Evening Standard

Fay reviews Amico Bio, a ‘lacto-vegetarian restaurant’ with ‘a homely air’ where ‘Italian leaves and vegetables’ are given ‘the starring roles’.

Starters of chargrilled asparagus and chargrilled oyster mushrooms were ‘fine; chargrilling added interest to the vegetables’, a pasta dish of mafaldine ‘featured undercooked tough pasta’, a frittata of artichoke was ‘not the anticipated sunny flat omelette but a sort of beige envelope’ but the zucchine fritte were ‘crisp and light’. 3 stars out of 5.

Andy Lynes, The Metro

Andy reviews Zucca, a ‘delightful new neighbourhood Italian bistro that gets nearly everything right’.

Zucca fritti ‘sport a light batter that remains miraculously crisp to the last bite’, grilled sardines were ‘beautifully fresh’ and mozzarella with grilled fennel was ‘about as good as the cheese gets’.

Pigeon was ‘roasted to tender pink perfection’, the fillet of halibut was ‘evidence of carefully judged cooking’ but ‘excellent home-made pappardelle’ was ‘let down by an underpowered ragu of pork, veal and beef’ and linguine with spinach, chilli and garlic was ‘a bit bleh’. 4 stars out of 5.

Gourmet Traveller

The Gourmet Traveller visits the Sportsman in Kent, for ‘impeccable cooking and considerate sourcing of ingredients’ ‘in a relaxed, unpretentious setting’.

Rock Oysters were ‘plump and fleshy’, pork scratchings were ‘magnificent’, ‘crisp and remarkably light’ and chilled asparagus soup was ‘a little stunner’ with ‘simple elegant flavours’. The smoked widgeon was ‘distinctly gamey’ and ‘indifferent’, the brill fillet was ‘subtle and refined’ and ‘an absolute revelation’ and the lemon tart with meringue ice cream was ‘expertly balanced’. No rating given.

For further information on Bon Vivant, please visit www.bonvivant.co.uk

Summary of Restaurant Reviews – 26 April 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the critics’ restaurant reviews. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits Pétrus, where ‘not-nice food was served with endless fiddle-faddle and interruption’ in ‘a horrid room with no good tables in it’ that ‘feels like the lobby of a Thistle hotel’.

A ‘drab’ ‘plate of sweetbreads’ had ‘no crispness or nuttiness’, the pigeon was ‘ruby-red and glistening and tasted of playground nosebleed’, the John Dory was ‘very dry’, a plate of pork and black pudding was ‘wan and feeble’, fillet steak was ‘good’ and a beer chocolate pudding was ‘brutally and unexpectedly nasty’. 4.33 out of 10.

AA Gill, The Sunday Times

AA Gill visits Bistrot Bruno Loubet, a ‘modern, functional and crowded’ room where ‘the menu is short and brilliantly desirable’.

Snails and meatballs were ‘both musty and meaty, with layers of corrupting flavours that were fugitive and memorable’, pale skate terrine was ‘pressed and precious and pristine’ and a shoulder of lamb, a wood pigeon and a beef daube were ‘all dirty-fingered, rustic combinations’ ‘cooked with a slow care, presented with a functional care’. 4 stars out of 5 for the food and atmosphere.

Pascal Wyse, The Guardian

Pascal visits The Dogs in Edinburgh, which features ‘a list of sturdy British propositions at reasonable prices’.

Oxtail broth had ‘a stock you could tell was good from six feet away’, a smoked mackerel, beetroot and horseradish salad had ‘chunks of fish that were moist but free of repeating oiliness’ and ‘two thick slabs’ of bacon ‘arrived on a mound of colcannon and topped with a near-luminous parsley sauce’. 8.5 out of 10.

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Jay visits Pétrus, which ‘buzzes with the sound of people having a good time’ that ‘has many virtues’ but ‘the food isn’t one of them’, with a ‘shameful wine list’.

A white onion velouté was ‘soothing and professional, if dangerously sweet’, a starter of sweetbreads was ‘expertly cooked’, roast langoustine with watercress soup ‘could knock the ball out of the park were it not that the langoustine were overcooked’, lobster tail and pork belly ‘delivered both ingredients monotonously’, a duck dish was ‘let down by meanness with the sauce’ and a dessert of a hollow sphere of chocolate ‘finally offered the theatrics one wants for this sort of money’. No rating given.

John Walsh, The Independent

John visits Golden Day in Soho, with ‘the brash, Day-Glo colours of its double frontage’ and ‘sickly orange light’ ‘interior’.

The pig’s ear with chilli was ‘a small plate crammed with extremely cold and glutinous offcuts of what looked like anaemic bacon’, won ton soup was ‘blandness personified’, stir-fried chicken with white chilli pepper had ‘no particular flavours, beyond fishiness and smoke’, dry pot duck flavoured with baby ginger ‘sounded lovely’ but ‘was the worst duck dish’ ‘ever tasted’ and a side-order of choy sum was ‘watery but edible’. 1 star out of 5 for the food, ambience and service.

Lisa Markwell, The Independent on Sunday

Lisa finds it ‘hard to fault anything at Gordon Ramsay’s relaunched Petrus’ but ‘can’t find it in’ her ‘heart to recommend it either’.

Starters of roasted langoustine tails with watercress soup and confit potato and scallops with cauliflower and anchovy came with ‘theatrical sauce-pouring flourishes’, roast-beef fillet with braised shin was ‘tender and perfectly cooked’, pork fillet with Bayonne ham was ‘so light it’s as if inflated rather than cooked’ and desserts, including fennel crème brûlée and a chocolate sphere continued the feeling that ‘there is something so mannered about the dishes that we can’t get excited’. 15 out of 20.

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph

Jasper visits The Dean Street Dining Room, a ‘dangerously fun’ ‘restaurant-hotel befitting its past’ in Soho.

‘Twice-cooked’ smoked haddock soufflé was ‘very high-class cooking’ ‘for a pub’, Lincolnshire onion tart was ‘tasty’ and ‘weeping with’ onions, pork cheeks with parsnip mash, glazed carrots and cider was ‘very good, though not the most melting’, the chicken in the chicken, bacon and leek pie was ‘niggardly and chewy, overpowered by bacon’ and the Queen of Puddings tasted ‘cheap and sugary’. 5 out of 10.

Fay Maschler, The Evening Standard

Fay visits Zucca, ‘a River Café with no river but meals at about a third of the price’ in Bermondsey.

Homemade breads were ‘impressive’, spaghettini with tomato sauce and salted ricotta was ‘just right’, the veal chop ‘was a rare sight on a menu’ ‘for £12.50’ and ‘grilled to a point where a blush of pink was retained’, roasted pigeon was ‘challenging to carve but’ ‘its seasoning was spot on and enlivening’ and an almond and rhubarb tart was ‘very good’. 4 stars out of 5.

Andy Lynes, The Metro

Andy visits the ‘too bland to be memorable’ Manson in Fulham, with ‘pleasant but unremarkable’ décor and ‘efficient’ service.

A starter of scallops with crab gratin was ‘rich and delicious’, a ‘nicely presented’ rump of lamb was ‘severely undercooked’ and the accompanying potato rosti ‘would also have benefited from more time in the pan’, a veal chop was ‘nicely grilled’ but ‘presented artlessly’ and macaroons were ‘dry and stale-tasting’. 2 stars out of 5.

Hugh Wright, Twelve Point Five Percent

Hugh visits Byron at The Intrepid Fox, a ‘relative newcomer to the ever-expanding gourmet burger market’ in Soho with ‘attentive, friendly and efficient’ service in a ‘very agreeable space with its exposed brick walls’ and ‘low-hanging lights’.

The Byron Burger (‘dry cure bacon, mature Cheddar, Byron sauce’) was ‘a very nice burger served simply’ with ‘nice and flat’ buns. The meat was ‘excellent’ and ‘perfectly’ ‘cooked’ ‘medium, beautifully pink, moist and oozing’, the Byron sauce was ‘perfectly pleasant’ but without ‘any discernible flavour’, both French and courgette fries were ‘crispy, hot and abundant’ but the courgette fries were ‘a little on the oily side’. No rating given.

For further information on Bon Vivant, please visit www.bonvivant.co.uk

Summary of Restaurant Reviews – 15 March 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the restaurant reviews from the weekend’s national newspapers. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits Bistrot Bruno Loubet at the Zetter hotel in Clerkenwell, which ‘is what a bistro is supposed to be’, where the wine list is ‘a joy’.

A starter of ‘big and relaxed and meaty and totally undisgusting’ Mauricette snails and meatballs with royale de champignons was ‘corking’, a beetroot ravioli was ‘tight, sweet’ and ‘mouth-filling’ and a ‘Revised Lyonnaise salad’ with Beaujolais dressing was ‘soooo tasty’, ‘so rich and sticky and somehow sombre with meatiness’.

A main of English rose veal was ‘beautiful, sweet’ and Hare Royale, with onion raviolo, pumpkin and dried mandarin purée, was ‘fantastic’. 8 out of 10.

Kate Spicer, The Sunday Times

Kate visits Crab Shakk in Glasgow, which is ‘sceney, but in an unintimidating, mellow way’, with ‘smiley and attentive service’.

Scallops came with ‘a sweet and feisty sage and anchovy butter that was asking to be soaked up with slices of bread’, tempura squid ‘came with a spiky soy and coriander sauce’ but ‘the batter looked a teeny bit undercooked and greasy’.

The crab cakes were ‘deservedly’ ‘famous’ and ‘near to perfect’, a panna cotta was ‘very good’ and a chocolate with ‘soggy pastry’ was ‘forgettable’. 3 stars out of 5 for the food; 4 stars out of 5 for the ambiance.

Matthew Norman, The Guardian

Matthew visits Zilli Green in Soho, and finds ‘a total shocker’ of a vegetarian restaurant with ‘huge mark-ups on dead cheap ingredients’ and ‘justifiably morose staff’.

A basket of bread was ‘so overwhelmingly flavoured with garlic chippings’ and a brodetto di legumi was ‘a baby-food mush of barley, spelt, lentil and yellow split bean that boldly shrugged off the attentions of its ingredients to taste solely of salt’.

The main courses ‘ranged from the average to the arrestable’, including a ‘lazy, pointless and dementedly oversalted’ spaghetti al quattro pomodori and a tagliatelle with porcini and white truffle oil that was ‘all right’. A tricolore salad was ‘an outrage at £5.50’ and a dairy-free tiramisu was ‘a subliminal advert for dairy produce’. No rating given.

Jay Rayner, The Observer

Jay visits the Canton Arms in Stockwell for ‘rustic, solid’ food with ‘big flavours’ and ‘no ingredient frottage’ where the menu is ‘admirably short’.

A haggis toastie was ‘dense and meaty’, a braised shoulder of blackface mutton was ‘proper dinner’, the house terrine was ‘thick and dense’ and ‘an exemplar of its kind’, and a treacle tart was ‘startlingly light’. No rating given.

John Walsh, The Independent

John visits Caravan, a ‘something-for-everyone eaterie’ in Clerkenwell, where ‘the waiters’ are ‘attentive’ and ‘the food mostly delicious’.

An amuse-bouche of miso soup poured over smoked trout was ‘delicious’, falafel was ‘nicely moist’ and a soft-shelled crab in a light batter was ‘brilliantly clean-tasting’.

The salt and Sichuan pepper squid was ‘delicious, hot and zingy’, a warm smoked duck, pear and walnut salad was ‘a masterclass in complementary textures’ and a veal schnitzel ‘came finely breadcrumbed and tender, yummily accessorised with gypsy potatoes’. 3 stars out of 5.

Toby Young, The Independent on Sunday

Toby visits The Gay Hussar in Soho, where ‘it quickly becomes clear that its best years are behind it’.

Chilled wild-cherry soup was ‘disappointing’, fried mushrooms with tartare sauce were ‘a little on the greasy side’ and Dutch calves’ liver sautéed with onions, bacon and paprika was ‘a shocker’. 11 out of 20.

Zoe Williams, The Telegraph

Zoe visits The West House, a ‘mainly wonderful, partly weird’ restaurant in Kent.

The bread, with a condiment of whipped pork dripping, was ‘wonderful’ and ‘delicious’, cured foie gras with caramel pineapple, sweet wine jelly and sesame crunch was ‘lovely but weird’ and a warm haddock carpaccio with bacon dressing was ‘lovely, far more predictable’.

A main of fried pig’s head and roast pork belly was ‘the star of the show’, ‘profoundly piggy’, with ‘not a thing out of place, not an ingredient missing or overdone’.

A dessert called ‘All the Fun of the Fair’ was ‘a disaster’, but the treacle tart ‘was totally beautiful’. 7.5 out of 10.

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph

Jasper visits Table, an ‘impressive, thoughtful restaurant’ in Brighton.

A porcini, celery heart and mascarpone risotto was ‘creamy but firm’ but ‘the volume on the porcini could be raised a notch’, and ‘delicious’ and ‘light and fluffy’ gnocchi with braised oxtail ‘looked lovely’.

A tranche of turbot, red wine lentils, pancetta and salsa verde was ‘fresh, moist and chunky’, a skirt steak was ‘chargrilled perkily pink’ and chocolate nemesis dessert was ‘a faithful tribute to an all-time classic’. 7 out of 10.

Fay Maschler, The Evening Standard

Fay ‘sees the return of a master’ with ‘prices that are eminently fair’ at Bistrot Bruno Loubet at The Zetter hotel in Clerkenwell.

A ‘Revised’ Lyonnaise salad was ‘effortful in a way that seems churlish to criticise’, a black bream fillet in bouillabaisse with rouille was ‘a bright idea’ and a confit of lamb shoulder with white beans was ‘completely pleasing’.

The hare royale with an onion raviolo and a pan-fried breast of wood pigeon was ‘masterful’, and desserts of crème fraîche and rhubarb brioche tart and a ‘brittle chocolate confection with molten centre’ were ‘also unassailable’. 4 stars out of 5.

For more information about Bon Vivant, please visit our website at www.bonvivant.co.uk

Summary of Restaurant Reviews – 1 March 2010

Posted by Bon Vivant

Welcome to Bon Vivant’s summary of the restaurant reviews from the weekend’s national newspapers. Enjoy!

Giles Coren, The Times

Giles visits Aqua Kyoto, a ‘bustling’ Japanese restaurant ‘high up in the roof’ ‘with stunning night views over Regent Street’ and ‘really terrific cocktails’ where the ‘food was pretty fantastic’.

The sushi was ‘first class’ and scallops were ‘polar fresh and buttery’. Spinach rolls were ‘really excellent’, deep-fried agedashi tofu was ‘a very decent substitute for the traditional chicken version’ and grilled eel teriyaki was ‘excellent’. 7 out of 10.

AA Gill, The Sunday Times

AA Gill visits a selection of restaurants in New York. Momofuku Milk Bar had a menu of ‘cakes and pies’ where pork buns were ‘by far and away the best thing, the reason for coming here’. DBGB, Daniel Boulud’s more casual restaurant with a ‘1980s Conran’ look had ‘deeply unpleasant black pudding’, a Vermont sausage with cheese ‘that was like eating an infected toe’ and ‘the best thing was the house hot dog’.

The Breslin, a ‘busy, dark dining room’ at the new Ace hotel, from the cook from the Spotted Pig ‘is one hell of a restaurant’. The full English breakfast was ‘well made’, the Caesar salad and steak and egg were ‘good’ and a grilled three-cheese and ham sandwich was ‘brilliant’.

Momofuku Milk Bar 4 stars out of 5; DBGB Kitchen and Bar 3 stars out of 5; The Breslin 4 stars out of 5.

Matthew Norman, The Guardian

Matthew visits the ‘ultra-voguish’ Dean Street Townhouse in Soho, which ‘is as close to flawless as seems decent’. The lighting and acoustics were ‘flawless’, the service ‘lavishly attentive without being oppressive’ and the food ‘exceedingly good’.

Twice-baked smoked haddock soufflé was ‘wonderful and savoury with a lovely, buttery sauce’, and onion tart with caramelised sweetbreads and grilled squid were both faultless.

The salt beef was ‘huge and the flavour authentic’, fish and chips was ‘excellent’, and ‘the ultra-faddish chicken and leek pie’ was ‘the pick of the bunch’. No rating given.

John Walsh, The Independent

John reviews Kitchen W8 in Kensington, where ‘the décor is rather stark’ and ‘the waiters’ know ‘their stuff’.

Chicken and mushroom ravioli was ‘light and utterly delicious’ and thinly sliced smoked eel with grilled mackerel was ‘as pretty as an English watercolour’. Pork cheeks with black pudding ‘were cooked to a densely flavoured succulence’ and the John Dory was ‘delicious, perfectly well cooked’ but ‘too sweet’. The puddings, including a rhubarb fool, ‘were wonderful’. 4 stars out of 5 for the food; 3 stars out of 5 for the ambience; 5 stars out of 5 for the service.

Toby Young, The Independent on Sunday

Toby visits Pearl Liang in the Paddington Basin, where the front-of-house manager is ‘a model of courtesy’ and the furniture is ‘reassuringly dysfunctional’.

The prawn dumplings were ‘nothing to write home about’, the pork bun, shu mai and glutinous rice were ‘all very tasty’ and the barbecued pork puffs were ‘sweet and rich’ and ‘best of all’. 14 out of 20.

Zoe Williams, The Telegraph

Zoe visits the ‘incredibly traditional’ Camellia in Horsham, West Sussex, where ‘the atmosphere is what the word ‘hush’ was invented for’, and the menu ‘as eternal as food itself’ with ‘some quirky touches’.

Scallops with crab ravioli and braised fennel had a ‘wonderful flavour’, the Cowfold quail ‘was absolutely terrific – tender, distinctive and subtly gamey’, slow-cooked Sussex fillet of beef ‘was very good’ and the seared sea bream with wild mushrooms ‘was very professional’. 7.5 out of 10.

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph

Jasper visits Gilpin Lodge in Cumbria and loves the ‘friendly informality’ of the ‘jewel in the crowd’ of the Lake District.

A ballotine of organic salmon with caviar and ‘a dollop of crème fraîche’ was ‘simple’ and ‘delicious’, braised lamb was ‘everything I remembered’, twice-baked goat’s cheese soufflé was ‘particularly picturesque’ and roasted breast of corn-fed Goosnargh duck was ‘very punchy, almost like venison, and waddles along delightfully with buttery celeriac and potato gratin’. Pistachio and olive oil cake was ‘winningly moist and crumbly’. 8 out of 10.

Chris Blackhurst, The Evening Standard

Chris visits Benares in Mayfair, which has a ‘buzziness and warmth about the atmosphere that some Mayfair establishments lack’, where ‘the decor has been lightened and the place feels less stuffy’ but ‘is far from cheap’

Tandoor-roasted rabbit in a spicy crust marinade was ‘jolly good’ and a tandoori rattan had ‘hot and juicy’ lamb, chicken that was ‘bursting with herbs’ and a ‘plump and sweet’ prawn.

Main of murg korma (tandoori chicken supreme with korma sauce and smoked courgette) and mongsho ghughni (roast Romney Marsh lamb rump on rosemary sweet potato and chickpeas) were both ‘delicious’. 4 stars out of 5.

For more information about Bon Vivant, please visit our website at www.bonvivant.co.uk