Harrison’s Restaurant Balham

George Wales visits Harrison’s restaurant in Balham, South London, sister restaurant to Sam’s Brasserie in Chiswick.

When it comes to neighbourhood dining, atmosphere is everything. A neighbourhood restaurant might be serving the tastiest food in the area, but if the ambience isn’t abuzz with a welcoming crowd of satisfied locals, you won’t attract the regulars.

Fortunately for the newly revamped Harrison’s, both bar and dining area are alive with a healthy hum of satisfied drinkers and diners when we visit on a chilly Tuesday evening, a convivial atmosphere that instantly catches the eye of many a frozen passer-by.

Harrison's Restaurant Balham

Having settled into a cosy booth adjacent to the busy open kitchen, and been presented with an extremely welcome platter of fresh bread and olive oil, we soon order our starters. Salt & Pepper Squid is every bit as light, crispy and moreish as one might hope for, while a Terrine of Ham Hock arrives appetisingly poised on a slate loaded with toasted bread, salad and slaw.

It being positively Arctic outside, we opt for hearty fare for our main courses at Harrison’s. Elwy Lamb Shoulder Shepherd’s Pie is a wonderful upgrade on classic pub grub, with the usual minced lamb subbed out for wonderfully tender shoulder meat. Served with a portion of pleasingly sticky honey-roasted veg, it’s comfort food at its best.

Roast Line Caught Atlantic Cod with Buttered Leeks & Clams is similarly warming, although the accompanying salsa verde could do with a little more oomph. Still, the fish is very nicely cooked, and the clams make for a lively accompaniment.

We finish with a Winter Berry Crumble that’s groaning with fruit, while a Rhubarb Eton Mess is a tart twist on a dessert that can often be overpoweringly sweet. It’s the kind of dish that points to a kitchen staff that know which ingredients are in season and how best to work them into their existing repertoire.

Harrison’s is the kind of place you’d be overjoyed to find positioned at the end of your street, and from the steady stream of punters filling the place on a miserable week night, it seems already to be close to a lot of people’s hearts.

Harrison's Bar Balham

With a gratifyingly low-lit cocktail bar newly installed in the basement at Harrison’s and a well-judged menu keeping the dining area ticking over nicely, it’s not difficult to see why. Harrison’s was deigned by designLSM.

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Shaka Zulu Restaurant Review

Even the menu at Shaka Zulu isn’t ordinary. The South African game menu brings together images of a man driving through an African safari and screaming “I’ll have one of everything”.

Inside the restaurant, buried in the Camden Lock Market, intense African displays at Shaka Zulu make the American film Jumanji seem like a real life story; giant wooden warriors guard the perimeter, snakes sit in the rafters and incense comes from the tree trunks holding the place together.

Opened nightly as a bar, restaurant and club, this expansive all purpose space is unexpectedly large and requires the use of an escalator to enter its depths.

Shaka_Zulu_Restaurant

I visited Shaka Zulu to try out their newest seasonal feel-good drink based around a natural African supplement called Baobab. This mega nutrient comes from the Baobab Tree, or ‘the tree of life’, a symbolic tree in the African savannah. Baobab is packed full of vitamins C, B6, calcium, potassium and fibre.

The in house mixologist at Shaka Zulu has combined this with Courvoisier vs., Chambord Liqueur, Port, Red Bush Tea, and Cardamom Syrup garnished with cinnamon stick. The result tastes like a refined mulled wine, only healthier.

Shaka Zulu Restaurant

After drinks, we went down escalator number two into a dark underworld of African Warrior statues and carved wall paintings for dinner. For starters I ordered the crocodile cigars. As a self proclaimed ‘safe’ eater, I figured these would be an easy start.

The crocodile came wrapped in a sort of spring roll pastry and a rich creamy sauce. They would have been quite delicious had I been able to get over the fact that I was, in fact, eating crocodile.

My guest had the ham hock and wildebeest – a tasty pork knuckle pressed into a square with a sweet papaya salsa that could make a monkey beetle taste good! He really enjoyed it and I could tell that the jungle feast was on!

As a main, my guest continued on the adventurous war path with the Zebra fillet, though he half considered chasing down a speedy Springbok or an angry wildebeest (both actual menu options). I continued off the trail and plucked up some safe King Scallops.

For dessert we had brandy pudding and a raspberry trifle, both of which were nice and adequately satisfying but when you’ve sampled a menu as unique as what we’ve had, the final course fell somewhat flat.

As the night grew on at Shaka Zulu, the lights got dimmer, the music became louder, and the smoke (yes smoke) radiating from all corners of the space, intensified. Happy diners stand up from their tables and make their way across the room to the centre bar, ready to dance the night away.

Having tried crocodile and a bite of my guest’s Zebra (which I will admit was fantastic), my adventurous levels are tapped and we made our way back up the escalators into the real world of rain, cold and cell phone reception.

Shaka Zulu is not built for an intimate dinner or a quick bite to eat, it is however, a decent place to come with friends for a fun night out or to show visitors somewhere unique. Adventurous tastebuds required.

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You can also read our other restaurant reviews including Coya London, El Pirata in Mayfair or Restaurant 34.

In Parma Restaurant, Fitzrovia

In Parma Restaurant in Fitzrovia is a small venue with a big vision.  In a city of increasing restaurant specialisms, In Parma is up there for commitment and quality. Dedicated to sourcing not only the finest ingredients from the region, but also the smaller suppliers, the menu shows pictures of the founder, Christian, wrestling produce from the suppliers  - ‘so good they don’t want to let it go’.

In Parma Restaurant

In Parma is the practical realisation of Food Roots, a company dedicated to the preservation of traditional Italian produce, importing foods bearing the Protected Designation of Origin and Protected Geographical Indication seals, which guarantee authenticity of flavour and sourcing. The restaurant, therefore, also doubles up as a gourmet food store.

In Parma Restaurant

But enough of all that. This IS the best Parma ham I’ve ever had. The Culatello di Zibello lives up to its fanfare and silky description on the menu and has a wonderful balance of salty-sweet meatiness.

And if you’re into your meats and cheeses, then the hardest part is going to be deciding what to have. Thankfully, there are a number of options for ‘mix and match’ which allow for more choice. We tried the In Parma charcuterie selection followed by the ‘tender’ cheeses; a more gentle choice of flavoured cheese, the Taleggio was a particular highlight with its mild and creamy texture and fruity tang.

In Parma Restaurant

There is also a tantalising offer of mains. We tried a buttery-sweet ravioli and a wonderfully meaty and very rich Ragu di Chianina with home-made polenta. The Chianina’ part referring to one of the oldest breeds of cattle in Italy. The Ragu had a fantastic tomato taste, bursting with flavour with the salty polenta.

Passion is a word used a lot (guilty as charged), but there is no danger of exaggeration here. The menu is a testimony to this, with some rare kinds of Parma ham and Parmigiano-Reggiano on offer.  If you’re interested in learning more about the culture and traditions of the food and wine in this region then look no further; Christian and his colleagues will be more than happy to discuss this with you.

The décor is fresh and simple.  Exposed brick work, hanging meats and shelves filled with wines line the small dining area. The overall result is a place where food is to be savoured and enjoyed, so avoid the temptation to over-order up front. The beauty of these kinds of places is that they allow you to order as much or as little as your time and appetite will allow.

Concierge’s tip: Do not miss out on the chance to try the Culatello di Zibello. You might also enjoy trying a bowl of Parma’s sparkling red, Lambrusco IGT, Monte delle Vigne 2011. You’ll have your photo taken and the image projected along with others on the back wall!

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The Grill on the Market, Farringdon

Smithfields. Site of the famous meat market. The address alone sets the tone for this restaurant and The Grill on the Market naturally makes the most of this. But it’s not just a shrine to all things steak – it’s dedicated to the surf as well as the turf.

The_Grill_on_The_Market

The décor at The Grill on the Market is tasteful and understated: Distressed pale wood and simple furnishings greet you in the bar, situated at the front of the restaurant, with a more luxurious feel in the main restaurant – including booths and large round tables to cosily get down to some serious eating.

The_Grill_on_The_Market

And boy, can you eat here. The range on the menu at The Grill on the Market reflects somewhere marketing itself as solid, honest, proper food – salt and pepper chicken, calamari, garlic king prawns, chicken and sweetcorn chowder. There’s a kind of north American classic feel.

For mains, there is a decent selection of steaks on offer at The Grill on the Market, including a chateaubriand and wagyu fillet. On the other hand, if you’re feeling more seafood inclined, there’s a fine choice of dishes to pick from: whole lobster, smoked salmon, moules frites, whole Dover sole, fish and chips…you get the picture.

The_Grill_on_The_Market

Having  decided to keep in with this classic vibe and settled on oysters followed by sirloin steak, the attentive and friendly waitress points out you can have your steak with…either a skewer of garlic prawns or half a lobster.

Well, what can you say to that? In fact, the menu also offers something called ‘posh surf and turf’, a substantial combination of Sirloin steak, baby scallops, prawns and crayfish.

In hindsight, opting for steak and half a lobster was a bit too much (read greedy) for me, but on their own both were sound offers. The sirloin was a tasty and juicy hunk, if slightly over cooked for medium rare, and the lobster full of chunks of tender white meat.

It’s a relief to see a list of greens to accompany this protein haven. Overall, the menu at The Grill on the Market isn’t a menu for the light-hearted. Desserts take in crème brulee, chocolate fudge cake (recommended if you can manage it), sticky toffee and red velvet cake.

There’s a pianist playing in the background at The Grill on the Market and it’s a buzzy place. The tables are filled with large groups of friends, the post work crowd and couples, reflecting the wide appeal of places like this. Price-wise it is mid-range for steak and lobster…but it can add up.

The Grill on the Market isn’t showy; the focus is on a robust, tasty and dependable menu, with a good range of choice – which extends to its wine and cocktail list – but it’s delivered with enough style and comfort to carry it all through.

Concierge’s tip: Ask for a table in one of the booths – you’ll get an excellent view of the other diners and a cosy table at which to tuck in.

The Grill on the Market are also launching a new brunch menu with unlimited prosecco for two or more people over two hours. Find out more about Bubbly Brunch and make a reservation.

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The GrEAT British Restaurant

A dark rainy night in Mayfair is the perfect time for some British comfort food. A left from Oxford Street onto North Audley Street brings you to the newly opened GrEAT British Restaurant, a stylish restaurant serving up traditional British fare.

Arriving at the restaurant, I am surprised at how small it is but there is everything you would expect to see in a traditional British space – dark wooden panelled walls and benches, old black and white photos on the walls and dim candlelit tables.

The Great British Restaurant

The menu is strictly British, with all ingredients sourced in Britain with items like Suffolk Lamb, Devon clams and Yorkshire pork belly to chose from. Even the wines are sourced locally. There is a wide variety of white and sparkling options but only a few red wines as the English climate makes it very difficult to produce red wine apparently.

The staff are friendly and helpful and help us to select the Sharpham Pinot Noir after we find the house red too sweet. Scanning the menu, we know it will undoubtedly be a heavy meal, but diets start in January right? We start with Beet Root Salad and the soup special of the day – artichoke, mushroom and King oyster in a cream broth.

The salad is fresh and flavourful but the soup was very rich in tarragon, which ended up overpowering everything else.  The selection of mains represent all the classics – pot roast chicken, pork belly, Shepherd’s Pie and Fish and Chips among them. I try the Sussex Cheese Sausage, which was heavenly. The sausages were perfectly crispy on the outside and soft on the inside; I couldn’t have eaten them faster.

The Great British Restaurant

My guest chooses the Suffolk Lamb that comes with a side bacon hot pot. Both are delicious but may be best put separately on the menu as it was very hearty and the plate could have benefited from some side veg instead.

Desserts were another highlight with the Chocolate Pudding and Salted Caramel Ice Cream being beautifully rich and the ‘proper’ apple and blackberry crumble, complete with a mini pot of custard to pour over, was delicious.

The relaxed and cosy atmosphere makes The GrEAT British Restaurant the perfect place to linger while recovering from a satisfying meal and there is a nice selection of English teas to help things along. Authenticity is the focus here and they really nail it. Country classics are well executed with the freshest ingredients and unique pairings.  With a number of options for British fare in the city, The GrEAT British Restaurant is definitely worth a visit.

Concierge’s Tip: There’s a private room in the back of the restaurant available to hire for an intimate dinner or party.

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London Restaurant Guide – New London Restaurants

Emyr Thomas gives us a summary of the new London restaurants to keep on your radar for the first quarter of 2013 along with a selection of restaurant events over the coming weeks.

Brasserie Chavot, Mayfair

The Westbury Hotel in Mayfair is quickly becoming a hot destination in Mayfair with its restaurant offerings. Alyn Williams at The Westbury opened to much acclaim last year, quickly earning its first Michelin Star and becoming one of the best restaurants of 2012, and in February, Brasserie Chavot will surely add its culinary powers as well.

Eric Chavot, who previously held 2 Michelin Stars at The Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge, will launch Brasserie Chavot on Conduit Street in Mayfair in January 2013.

Brasserie Chavot will be a 70-seat restaurant with a small bar area and the menus will showcase his signature style of contemporary and classic French cooking.

Balthazar London – Covent Garden

Balthazar London will open in February 2013 in the old Covent Garden ‘flower cellars’ on the corner of Russell Street and Wellington Street. The original Balthazar was opened in New York City by Keith McNally in 1997, and has been one of New York’s most popular restaurants ever since.

Balthazar_London

Balthazar London will be open for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, plus weekend brunch, with food available all day long. The style and décor will resemble the original Balthazar, which stays true to its traditional French brasserie roots, which will also be reflected in the menu.

Ametsa with Arzak Instruction

A new Basque restaurant, ‘Ametsa with Arzak Instruction’, will open at The Halkin Hotel in February 2013. Ametsa will be a collaboration between The Halkin and a team that includes chefs Elena Arzak and Juan Mari Arzak, whose Arzak restaurant in San Sebastian, Spain, has 3 Michelin stars.

The menu will focus on ‘New Basque Cuisine’, and will replace Thai restaurant Nahm, which was previously at The Halkin.

Story Restaurant by Tom Sellers

Tom Sellers’s restaurant ‘Story’ will open its reservation lines at 9am on 1 February 2013 before opening early March on Tooley Street in South London. Story restaurant will only have 42 covers available for both lunch and dinner.

Having worked with Tom Aikens, Thomas Keller, Adam Byatt and Rene Redzepi, Tom Sellars is a chef to watch in 2013.

Cucina Asellina, Covent Garden

Cucina Asellina has opened in London at the new ME Hotel in Covent Garden, based on New York’s Asellina restaurant, specialising in ‘simple Italian cuisine’.

Cucina Asellina’s all day dining menu has been created by Executive Chef Marco Porceddu and features antipasti plates, traditional pizzas and flatbreads from a wood-burning oven, and an a la carte menu featuring home made pasta dishes.

Cucina_Asellina

Cucina Aselina is the latest London venture from The ONE Group, who recently opened STK at the ME Hotel in November 2012 and Heliot at The Hippodrome earlier in the year. We recommend combining a visit with a drink at the rooftop Radio Bar with glorious views of London.

Social Eating House, Soho

Jason Atherton is set to launch a second restaurant in Soho on Poland Street called the Social Eating House, following the launch of his acclaimed restaurant Pollen Street Social, which opened in April 2011.

The new restaurant is planned to open in March 2013 with further details to be announced in due course.

Dim Sum at Asia de Cuba – launches 20th January 2013

Asia de Cuba will launch its Dim Sum Brunch on Sunday 20 January – a chilled Sunday gathering featuring authentic dim sum with a contemporary twist. Shaking up the traditional Sunday lunch, Dim Sum Brunch offers dim sum alongside Latin inspired cocktails, and performances by a popular Cuban Jazz trio and DJ.

Whisky Tasting at The Mount Street Deli

On Tuesday 22 January at 6pm Colin Dunn from Diageo will lead a tasting of six single malts from distilleries across Scotland, including Islay, Skye, Highlands and East Lothian. He will explain how geography, the distilling process and maturation all affects the flavour of the whisky.

The whiskies will be tasted on their own and matched with (some surprising) food. Tickets are £15, and to book call 020 7499 6843.

The Mount Street Deli

The Spice Season at Corrigan’s Mayfair

Richard Corrigan’s foodie friends including the likes of Dr Pixie McKenna, Fay Maschler and Kate Spicer will join him in the kitchen at Corrigan’s Mayfair in January to share their favourite spice-inspired recipes. Head Chef Chris McGowan will be hosting a series of complimentary demonstrations and guests will be given a goody bag with recipe cards and spices to take home.

Throughout January the bar menu will also feature classic Corrigan’s Mayfair dishes with a spicy twist, such as Hardwick mutton Rogan josh with flatbread and Chocolate souffle with cardamom and orange.

If you would like Bon Vivant’s concierge team to advise and book all your restaurants, including early access to London’s hottest new restaurants, contact us about becoming a member.

Cucina Asellina at the ME London

Cucina Asellina has opened in London at the new ME Hotel in Covent Garden, based on New York’s Asellina restaurant, specialising in ‘simple Italian cuisine’.

Cucina Asellina’s all day dining menu has been created by Executive Chef Marco Porceddu and features antipasti plates, traditional pizzas and flatbreads from a wood-burning oven, and an a la carte menu featuring home made pasta dishes.

Cucina_Asellina

Cucina Asellina’s signature dishes include wild mushroom, fontina & spring onion pizza (£10); old-fashioned square spaghetti with pomodoro, fresh basil and olive oil (£9) and saffron strozzapreti with prawns, spinach & butternut squash (£14).

Cucina Aselina is the latest London venture from The ONE Group, who recently opened STK at the ME Hotel in November 2012 and Heliot at The Hippodrome earlier in the year.

We recommend combining a visit to Cucina Asselina with a drink at the rooftop Radio Bar with glorious views of London.

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Garufin Restaurant Review

Emyr Thomas visits Garufin, a new Argentine restaurant in London’s Holborn neighbourhood.

In an almost hidden location on Lamb’s Conduit Passage (not to be confused with Lamb’s Conduit Street or the incorrect placement on Google Maps), Garufin is a take on Argentina’s relaxed neighbourhood restaurants and bars.

Garufin is the latest restaurant from the owners of established Islington restaurant Garufa. Split over two levels, the ground features a café-bar that does not take reservations, with a design of exposed brickwork and black and white tiled floor, with a menu of small plates of regional Argentine specialities.

Garufin_Cafe_Bar

A bottle-lined staircase leads to the main restaurant, which although more formal, is still rather casual in design and feel, with a nice touch of rediscovered vaults that have been converted into wine cellars.

We started with several portions of Mandioca (crispy fried yam with spicy ketchup), which was an excellent snack to start the evening. From the rest of the menu, highlights on our visit included Humita (grated creamed sweet corn and basil oil), Codorniz Adobada (slow cooked potted quail and potatoes) and the Lomo from the grill (prime Argentine fillet steak).

Garufin_restaurant

The wine list is, as you might expect, exclusively Argentinian, with wines listed by region, from Mendoza to Patagonia, Salta, San Juan and La Rioja, with plenty of varieties of Malbec to satisfy my cravings.

On our visit, the restaurant was barely half full, and it lacked the warmth and energy that a restaurant like Garufin needs – hopefully this review will make you want to visit and fill the restaurant with the energy and life that it deserves. For a taste of Argentina in Central London, you’ll feel right at home at Garufin.

Address: 8b Lambs Conduit Passage, Holborn, WC1R 4RH
Phone: 020 7430 9073

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Condesa Restaurant Review

Sophie McLean visits Condesa restaurant in Covent Garden.

Leaping on to the tapas flushed scene on Covent Garden’s Maiden Lane, recently opened Condesa restaurant brings a Mexican twist to all those Spanish themed places we’ve also seen of late.

Here, alongside South American roasted coffee, Venezuelan hot chocolate and cake (where you’ll find free wifi too for long afternoons spent ‘working’) you can also tuck into a simple variety of soups and bocadillos.

Condesa Restaurant

The décor is predictably laid back, with projected images of beach-baked Baja California at one end of the bar, and a stylish wooden-come-shiny metal decked apartment theme throughout. During the daytime and evening the petite space at Condesa restaurant (with capacity for around 30 people, seated) serves up a variety of hot and cold bites.

Dueño Daniel Caballero, originally from Mexico, has managed to stay away from the hotter climes since, mainly though his gastronomic adventures through France and Spain, meeting aptly named business partner Rafael Serrano en route.

What I’m most keen about in this place is that next to a couple of other Hispanic choices, it has three reasonably priced La Cetto Mexican wines on the menu – including a Chenin Blanc, a Zinfandel, and a Nebbiolo – all showing very well.

The zinfandel is fresh and comparable to something from Sonoma, redolent of squashed strawberries and ripe fruit, and the Nebbiolo, a lighter, more floral version of the beloved bottles I used to know in Italy, but still with prominent violet characteristics.

Food-wise you’ll find classic lomos, choizos and cheeses, an interesting Cecina de Leon (12 month old cured beef, akin to Italy’s bresaola), and Mexican ingredients such as agave syrup that comes drizzled on the blue cheese salad, green tomato salsa served on the pulled pork sliders, and a weekly changing ceviche.

Changing specials include Mole chicken tostadas – not quite what you’d imagine if you haven’t been to Mexico before. The good news is that you don’t have to order food here with drinks just yet, so it’s an easy early pit-stop or place to nibble prior to more substantial meals elsewhere.

Address: 15 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7NG

Phone: +44 203 601 57 52

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Read some of our best London content including our guide to the best weekend brunch in London, the best boutique clothes shops in London or where to try the city’s best coffee.

The House of Wolf Restaurant

Frances Cottrell visits the House of Wolf restaurant in Islington.

The House Of Wolf, named because wolves have a pack mentality, thus representing the team, and because the owners have always thought them ‘cool’ is a new drinking and dining concept in Islington.

The House Of Wolf is a three storey building on Upper Street with a ground floor bar, a mid level cocktail den and a top floor loft restaurant. The idea of cool runs through the concept from the juxtaposition of the venture in a traditional pub, to the website and design, the presentation and description of the fantastical cocktails, and the choice of chef residences it houses.

House of Wolf

Our evening began in the Apothecary Cocktail Bar which serves ‘experimental elixirs’ largely inspired by Victorian themes. The bar is very dimly lit and even reading the menu was a bit of a struggle, but the decision to order a David Bellamy was an easy one. The creativity is evident, and the level of effort which goes in to each drink is really quite extraordinary.

So, quite some time later, our drinks arrived, undoubtedly fabulous and we greeted them with real enthusiasm. It was a shame that staff here weren’t so effusive and ultimately the wish to engage with them about the drinks dwindled rapidly.

House of Wolf

So then upstairs to the chef residency: Blanch  & Shock (although each month a different collective will be invited to host). Thankfully the lighting and staff were much improved here, and the room itself is beautifully understated with light touches of quirkiness.

The six course menu began with hunks of homemade bread, which were delicious and moreish. The second course was sadly a serious low-point though, and raw prawns wrapped in lardo were almost inedible. But, fortunately the following seabass, duck and then exquisite beef courses were absolutely delicious.

A lightness of touch and creativity with good quality (often foraged) ingredients was a pleasure, and the chefs personally presented the majority of dishes to us. These charming men proudly presented each plate, expertly communicating the construction of the dish, and this added a real sense of occasion to the evening. Textures of apple for dessert were scrumptious, but as with all courses, you were left wanting slightly more.

The House Of Wolf is about to launch a Sunday lunch menu that is bound to be an antidote to the traditional roast dinner, and the Blanch & Shock run has been extended, I assume due to its popularity. The space is very interesting, and I think with a little more charm from the cocktail bar, could become a great success.

Address: House of Wolf, 181 Upper Street, N1 1RQ

Phone: 0207 288 1470

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