Wine Guide: A Guide to Good Wine Drinking, Part 3

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this final part of the series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares some of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 3: When in the Shop… Vilma’s Crash Course on Popular Grape Varieties

If you know the main characteristics of some of the most popular grape varieties, you’ll find it much easier to navigate in the shop. You could refer to a book or check on the internet which flavours are typical to certain grapes, otherwise, read on for a crash course on the most popular wines.

Cabernet – has a specific structure, with lots of black current, cassis flavours, definitely high in tannins and high in acidity, which means it is a food friendly wine. Tannins in wine from Napa Valley will be overshadowed by fruit. Cabernet from the Old World usually develops more tobacco and leather aromas – for example, Cabernet form Bordeaux is more earth than fruit driven.

Merlot – almost opposite from Cabernet, Merlot has softer tannins and is less acidic, so it is a bit rounder and softer. It has plum aromas and is more fruit driven. People love Merlot wine; it’s a real crowd pleaser.

Pinot Noir – is always lighter, has good acidity and a medium body, with strawberry and red berry aromas versus black. It’s more tart, doesn’t have much of the tannins and so is smoother, more elegant and food friendly.

Nebbiolo – very, very tart. Barolo Barbesco made from Nebbiolo grapes is very high in acid and tannins. When grapes are high in tannins, you want to buy them a little bit older. When they get older, the tannins soften – the acidity of tannins mould together in a bottle and is much more appealing to drink.

That’s why Bordeaux wines are great to keep for longer. You put them away because the tannins can be a little bit too harsh in their youth, so a little older Bordeaux would be much more enjoyable.

Pinot Noir will also become a little bit softer and more elegant with age, so the tartiness and the acidity will mellow down. Some white Burgundies can age for many, many years. The tannins and the acidity of the sugar are the two key elements for wine to age. These are the preservatives that work their way into the wine flavour. As white Burgundy is very, very acidic, it ages extremely well.

German Riesling can age for a hundred years because of high sugar and will still be amazing.

Beaujolais Nouveau – very trendy, it comes out right after the harvest. The wine is very fruity and easy to drink. All Beaujolais are made from the Gamay grape, but Beaujolais wine from the 10 Grand Cru villages taste more like Burgundy.

Pinot Grigio – has medium acidity and medium body. It is tempting to say that people who like Pinot Grigio like very neutral whites or neutral wines that don’t have much of anything really. Some Pinot Grigio wines are better than others, but many are made in a very cheap way. It’s not my favourite thing to drink, but of course some Pinot Grigios are fantastic. For example, one of my favourites, Venica Pinot Grigio, is very good.

If you like Pinot Grigio, you might like wines that have similar characteristics. For example, Grüner Veltliner, can be a little bit spicier. Many Italian whites, such as Gavi de Gavi also have similar characteristics.

Chardonnay – it really depends where it comes from. A lot of Chardonnays now are made with active oak, so they are creamy and buttery. But Chardonnay from Burgundy is more mineral and acid than oak driven.

Sauvignon Blanc – is bright and has good acidity. It also has lots of grassy characteristics and smells like jalapeños, gooseberries and asparagus, especially if it’s from New Zealand. The most famous Sauvignon Blanc region is Sancerre in France and its wine is one of the best whites in the world; it’s really amazing!

Sauvignon Blanc isn’t normally aged in oak, so it is fresh and bright and food friendly, but of course as always, it depends on what area the wine comes from. Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is definitely going to be sharper and will have a little bit more of the jalapeño and gooseberry aromas while Sancerre wines posses all that greenness, but has more subtle flavours.

Champagne – sparkling wine was actually discovered in the South of France and not the Northern Champagne region. Today sparkling wines from the Champagne area are considered to be the finest in the world.

The area is quite small, but cold and perfect for sparkling wine as the grapes do not get too ripe and have lots of acidity. Champagne is made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes according to the traditional method, which is labour and money intensive. The second fermentation starts in an individual bottle, so you have to add yeast and sugar into each bottle to begin it.

Italian Prosecco is much cheaper, because both fermentations are done in huge tanks. Spanish Cava, however, is done according to the traditional method, but from different grapes than in the Champagne region.

Cristal Champagne, made by Roederer Champagne house is one of the most expensive because it is a special cuvee (best grape juice, cuvée is the first 2,050 litres of grape juice from 4,000 kg of grapes). Cristal was specially made for the Russian tsar and has only been sold commercially since 1945.

Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are red grapes, but of course you can make white wine from red grapes when you don’t leave contact with the skin (juice is white from all the grape varieties). Champagne made from only Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grapes is sharper and has spicier aromas. Champagne made from only Chardonnay grapes is more creamy, yeasty and has rounder flavours. Rose champagne has more strawberry aromas and is sharper.

Cheers!

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog. What’s your favourite wine? We would love to hear your thoughts, so please leave your comments below.

Wine Guide: A Guide to Good Wine Drinking, Part 2

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this second part of a three part series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares more of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 2: Vilma’s Guide to Basic Food & Wine Pairing

Acidity is the main ingredient for food and wine pairing. For me it’s very important, because I always have some wine with food. You can pair similar textures of food and wine or you can almost contrast them. For example, the classic pairing – spicy works well with something a little bit sweet, so German Riesling and spicy Thai food is a match made in heaven.

You could have some game meat with the same aromas in wine – gamey and spicy. For example, Syrah or Grenache, let’s say from Rhone, would go extremely well with game and would have enough acidity to elevate its flavours.

Creamy pasta can be great with creamy white wine – what goes better with cream than more cream? Well, it could also work well with good acidity light red, which would cut through the richness of the butter or cream of pasta sauce, like Pinot Noir from Burgundy or Nebbiolo from the Piedmont region in Italy.

When it comes to seafood, it depends of course, but if it is grilled, fresh seafood or fish with olive oil and lemon, then it should be white wine.

I don’t always enjoy the New World wines, because they are bigger, bolder and fruit driven. They are great to enjoy on their own, but when it comes to food, they can lack acidity. I prefer wines that are a little bit more lean and elegant, but that doesn’t mean that they are not full of flavour; they have so many layers if you really want to start analysing them.

That’s why I love Burgundy – a light and elegant style pairs well with food. Chablis or unoaked Chardonnay are bright and have amazing acidity, so you can pair them with oysters and with any type of seafood or salads. Chablis normally is unoaked, but if you go a little bit down South to Burgundy, you get Meursault which is normally round and smoky because of the oak influence and you can pair it with creamy pasta.

When I go out, I always choose a bottle of sparkling or a bottle of white that pairs well with the majority of foods, because I love to eat small plates. White wine always works well with food because of the acidity and its brightness. Lighter red is also always good and a safe option if you are not sure what you are going to eat.

Rosé is another wine that can be universal with food. If you are having different dishes such as tapas or not sure what to eat, a bottle of rosé is perfect.

If you drink certain wines without food you might not enjoy them, because they might be too sharp, acidic or tannic and will lose their value. Wines such as the very tart Sangiovese, the anic Nebbiolo or the acidic Burgundy require food to balance them out.

If you are not into food and wine pairing, do not worry and choose your favourite wines with any kind of food: The most important thing is to enjoy and trust your own palate.

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog and keep an eye out for the final part of the guide, which will be posted shortly.

Wine Guide: A Guide To Good Wine Drinking, Part 1

Vilma Mazaite is the Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at the famous Little Nell hotel in Aspen, Colorado. She has a diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded the Advanced Sommelier title and is on her way to becoming the Master Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In this first part of a three part series, transcribed from an interview by our reviewer Vilma Darling, Vilma shares some of her knowledge with Bon Vivant.

Part 1: Vilma’s Wine Drinking Tips

1. Drink Champagne from a White Wine Glass

Champagne is my favourite wine; unfortunately a lot of people forget that champagne is actually a wine and not just some fizzy drink to make a toast with. I love to serve champagne in a white wine glass – even in the Champagne area of France and some of the best restaurants, it isn’t served in a flute. Champagne is one the finest wines in the world and can be enjoyed as such throughout the meal. The wider wine glass softens the bubbles, so you get a better taste of flavours.

Don’t save Champagne for special occasions or celebrations only. It has the highest acidity of all white wines and pairs well with food. Champagne has the combination of breadness, yeast and creaminess and is great with seafood, especially oysters. Certain Champagnes such as Krug, Bollinger and Vilmart are aged in oak, so they develop rich and creamy characteristics and can withstand any type of dish.

It is, however, worth maintaining tradition for toasts – then you can drink from a flute to help the Champagne to stay fizzy, which is great for surviving long speeches!

2. Buy ‘Grower Champagne’

The big champagne houses such as Veuve Clicquot or Moet & Chandon mass produce champagne and make millions of bottles. They do not grow enough grapes to satisfy the demand and have to buy them from the whole Champagne region. The NM letters (Négociant-Manipulant) on the label will tell you that the Champagne house sources the majority of their grapes.

I prefer to drink the ‘grower champagne’ – the Champagne produced by wine makers who grow their own grapes instead of selling them to big houses.

The initials RM (meaning Récoltant-Manipulant) mean that the champagne you bought or ordered was made by growers under their own label. RM champagnes are incredible and exclusive, but often cost less than the famous names.

3. Decant White & Red Wine

Decant old wine to help remove the sediments or if you want to achieve the right temperature or soften the acidity and tannins.

Old wine often has dead yeast or dead protein cells that are totally harmless, but might not be pleasant, on the bottom of your glass. Even white wine has crystals, which can actually be a good thing because the wine wasn’t stabilised with many chemicals or filtered too much and is therefore more natural.

Wine might be too cold when brought straight from the cellar, so decant to achieve the appropriate temperature.

Decant white and red wine to soften the acidity. I decant young white Burgundy wines because the air softens not only the flavour, but it helps to warm the wine up so you can truly enjoy the bouquet. Red Burgundy is served in big bowl glasses because of the same need for air, but some bottles could be far too elegant for decanting; it totally depends on the year or producer.

Red wines with high tannins and high acidity such as Cabernet, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo taste much better decanted.

4. Do Not Hesitate to Refuse Bad Wine in Restaurants

Wine can be spoilt when corked or oxidised. If you’ve never tried bad wine you probably wouldn’t know how horrible it tastes. Wine can be corked when bacteria gets into the cork – it will smell of mold and must.

Wine can get oxidised when left in the light or in a room with temperature variations, because it has to be kept in a stable climate. The air can also get through the cork and oxidise the wine. It will taste like vinegar and will smell of cider rather than wine.

You should return the bad wine, because drinking it would do no justice to the restaurant or the wine label. It’s impossible to enjoy corked or oxidized wine and you will never order the same bottle again.

5. Investigate the Lesser-Known Regions

If you want to find great wines at a good price, look into less famous areas. Let’s say, the ten Cru Beaujolais villages in France. I absolutely love one of the producers Marcel Lapierre from Morgon. Beaujolais have had a bad reputation for many years for making bubble gum like wines, but after you try such producers as Marcel Lapierre, it will become your favourite, I have no doubt.

There are other lesser-known areas in the expensive Burgundy region, such as Giverny, Mercurey or Macon. These places are off the beaten path but you may well be surprised by both the quality and the value of the wines.

Famous producers always make village wines or second label wines, so if you know a good producer, buy their second label wines if you want to save money. For example, Leroy which is a big famous Burgundy name, makes a regular, but great, Bourgogne. There is the Vezelay village next to the famous Chablis region in France where wine makers use the same grape variety (Chardonnay), but sell for much less. Try Domaine de la Cadette wines and you can thank me later!

I love Italy because it is the source of good wines that aren’t expensive at all. There are still lots of small areas that you can discover, such as the Marche region; also Puglia, Campania or Sicily. The grapes are often indigenous to that area and you might not have heard of them.

Spain also holds good value for money. I’ve recently fallen in love with Spanish whites, such as Albarino or Verdejo. Txakoli from the Basque country is unbelievable too – you almost never describe wine as salty, but Txakoli is a bit salty because the grapes grow so close to the ocean.

Of course, you might make a mistake and you’ll never buy that wine again, so play with small amounts of money. I never buy expensive wine, but always investigate areas that are close to famous wine producers, but nowhere near close to their prices. Open a map and look for regions that you haven’t come across before – you might be surprised.

6. Invest in Burgundy

If you want to invest in wine, buy only big names. The best ones come from Bordeaux and Burgundy in France. Barbaresco and Barolo in Italy can sometimes be good for investing, but Bordeaux wines will probably bring the best returns.

For further information on Vilma Mazaite, please click here to visit her blog.

You can click here to read Part 2 of the guide or here to read the final part.

Travel Guide: Feversham Arms Hotel & Verbana Spa

Vilma Darling visits the Feversham Arms hotel, an idyllic rural retreat in Yorkshire.

If there’s such a thing as an ideal English countryside retreat, then the Feversham Arms hotel and Verbena spa in Helmsley, Yorkshire, is definitely very close to perfection. Or at least so it seemed to me when I was sitting in the wooden hot tub outdoors in the early days of this spring.

The trees hadn’t blossomed yet, so I was admiring the crows’ nests on the bare branches and the ancient church tower with the rooster wind vane while the birds screamed at their enemies and the dark clouds were threatening to burst with rain.

I didn’t mind the miserable weather one tiny bit, because the hotel and the spa had absolutely everything that I might have needed: a restaurant run by two formidable chefs, an amazing champagne menu, a boardroom, library and private dining facilities as well as a great film collection in every room. The Verbena spa offered a large range of beauty and health treatments, along with a heated swimming pool and hot tub outside in the courtyard. The hotel’s manager, Simon Rhatigan, informed me that guests were enjoying the outdoor facilities even last winter when the Yorkshire area suffered from heavy snow.

I enjoyed the Verbena spa to the full: my Elemis Taster Facial and scalp massage were very relaxing (and, I hope, beneficial) and I particularly loved the ‘welcome touch’ – a hot towel rub for my tired feet. The spa also features a steam room, sauna, aromatherapy room, salt inhalation room, ice cave, foot spas and a cosy relaxation area, where I saw some ladies happily sleeping.

Originally built as a coaching inn in the 19th century, the hotel later expanded and now features 33 individually designed bedrooms, 22 of which are suites. All bedrooms are fitted with Bang & Olufsen televisions with integral DVD and CD players, L’Occitane toiletries, Egyptian cotton bedding and a toy sheep with a “Do not disturb” name-tag.

The hotel features a professionally lit gallery area and lots of original prints and collected art, mostly from local artists and I was seriously considering buying the apparently very popular “Feversham Cow” charcoal sketch (£245.00) that I kept seeing everywhere in the hotel.

The manager informed me that the hotel is a popular place for wedding celebrations, birthdays and anniversaries, while others just like walking in the North York Moors National Park, exploring the coast or visiting Helmsley’s shops and galleries.

Feversham’s Food & Beverage director, Michelin-starred chef Chris Staines, was recruited from London’s Mandarin Oriental hotel where he had run the Foliage restaurant. He and head chef Simon Kelly (who worked with Michel Roux at the Waterside Inn) have improved the afternoon tea menu (£22.50 per person) and introduced a 5 course tasting menu (paired with wine) and a 3 course a la carte menu as standard. Both dining menus cost a decent £45 per person.

At the afternoon tea table, the ladies and I cleared the crab, crème fraiche & coriander sandwiches and were very impressed with the passion fruit mousse with coffee jelly and lemon posset. I’m a devout macaroon lover and even though the violet & lavender and blood orange & lemon macaroons were good, they didn’t quite live up to my expectations.

However, the food at dinner was exceptionally good, thanks to the ingenuity of both chefs. I had yellow fin tuna with hazelnuts, Iberico ham and balsamic reduction as a starter; wild sea bass with Jerusalem artichokes, chicory and Parmesan beignet for the main course;  and we finished our meal with a huge plate of cheese each. The waitress rolled out the massive trolley with 18 different cheeses and gave a deep sigh when we asked to name them all. That was probably our mistake and a waste of time, because by the time she finished, I could only remember one name: “The Stinking Bishop”.

After a truly satisfying meal I retired to my beautiful spa suite to enjoy some of the great films in my room (Godfather, Casablanca, The English Patient and “Y tu mama tambien” to name a few). But then the Yorkshire Sheep Dip lavender bubble bath caught my attention and I lit the incense and the candle and ended up in the very comfortable bath with one of my favourite magazines, and placed the toy sheep with “Do not disturb me” tag outside my door.

Website: www.fevershamarmshotel.com

Address: Feversham Arms Hotel & Verbena Spa, Helmsley, North Yorkshire, YO62 5AG

Phone: +441439 770 766

For further information or to make a reservation, please contact your concierge.

Travel Guide: The Elysian Hotel, Chicago

Vilma Darling experiences fine living and fine dining at The Elysian Hotel in the Windy City.

The quality of service is the first thing that always strikes me when I arrive in the United States from Europe, and I was even fortunate enough to be treated well by the immigration officers on this visit. I’m not saying that travelling is less enjoyable in other countries, but there’s something special about the friendliness and helpfulness of staff on the other side of the pond. It almost has another dimension, not really possible or achievable in the good old continent.

I had the luxury to experience the height of this special treatment during my two-night stay at the 5-star Elysian Hotel in Chicago’s Gold Coast neighbourhood, which actually is – roll the drum – a tip-free hotel. Tipping is expected in most places in the States and my American friends often like to remind me that that’s how the service personnel make most of their money. But tipping graciously is something that we don’t know how to do properly in Europe (or we don’t do it at all), so in America I often find myself at a loss about how much and when to tip. I’m told that it’s necessary even when the service is not great. Imagine my relief when I found out that this hassle is non-existent at the Elysian and the hospitality there seemed genuine without tipping expectations.

Architect Lucien Lagrange designed the newly-built 60-storey and 188-room Elysian hotel, which opened in December 2009, and with Chanel, Dior and Art Deco inspired design, brought ultra-luxury and style to Chicago’s fine dining and even finer living scene.

Its heated courtyard is unusual for the States and more reminiscent of European hotels, but the sheer height of the building and spaciousness of the rooms (average accommodation is 890 square feet) reminds you that you are in North America, where size matters.

I absolutely loved the art pieces, specially commissioned for the hotel by interior designer Simeon Deary’s team. The beautiful foyer with huge chandelier and two striking sculptures that resemble Greek fauns is a perfect place for special occasions, and, indeed, there was a wedding photo-session in full swing when we first entered the hotel.

The platinum and champagne coloured suites and Chanel jewellery inspired lighting soothe the nerves after a day spent shopping in the very near Magnificent Mile strip of Michigan Avenue. You don’t even have to go that far for Marc Jacobs though – its boutique is on the ground floor of the hotel.

There’s a decent size balcony and fireplace in every room and the television that can be switched on in the mirror in the bathroom is best enjoyed while soaking in a tub. The Roman bathhouse-themed Spa & Health Club features sauna, steam rooms, Jacuzzi and offers a wide range of treatments from beauty and massages to a barber suite for men.

The gym has enough equipment to make you sweat out the previous day’s indulgences while the Pilates and Gyrotonics studio offers a few classes as well as private training. The beautiful mosaic tiled swimming pool is positioned slightly awkwardly – you have to cross the gym and the spa reception area – but it’s worth the effort.

You don’t need to leave the hotel if you want to treat yourself to an amazing dinner. My Chicagoan friend Elizabeth told me that the Balsan bistro does the best burger in town (she said she couldn’t even talk to her husband while eating it), and truly, the Wood Fired Burger with cheddar, rosemary, red onion and fries was definitely one of the most delicious burgers I’ve ever had ($15). Run by Chef Danny Grant, Balsan has strong ties with local producers and sources seasonal ingredients from 65 local farms for the ever-changing menu.

The RIA restaurant next door, also run by Chef Grant, is more of a sophisticated and formal dining experience. It was awarded two stars by the 2011 Michelin Guide and the prices are steeper than at Balsan. However, every Sunday night you can experience the best of both restaurants for a bargain price of $29 per person when RIA is closed and Balsan does a special set menu. We had Winter Lettuce (endive & walnuts), Tuna Crudo with blood orange and scallions, Suckling Pig with pearl onion and baby carrot, Lobster and Scallop with fennel and citrus butter, with Caramel Profiteroles in chocolate sauce ending our great fine dining treat.

The Elysian is definitely worth its name – in Greek mythology the paradise for souls of heroic and virtuous nature was called the Elysian Fields. The Elysian Hotel also offers 52 private residences for people who wish to stay there permanently. They must not only be of heroic, but also of a wealthy nature, as most of the residences are worth more than $1 million.

For further information, visit their website or contact your concierge to make a booking.

Restaurant Guide: Bond & Brook

Our guest writer, Vilma Darling, continues her culinary tour with a visit to Bond & Brook in Mayfair.

There’s no better cure for a disastrous visit to the hair salon (no blonde wants to go seven shades darker!) than a generously sized Bellini cocktail served in a proper champagne saucer. The hairdresser had decreed that I could go blonder NEXT TIME, so to drown my sorrows I went to the Fenwick department store on New Bond Street, where my friend Veronica joined me and my terrible mood for lunch at the Bond & Brook restaurant.

To calm my nerves, I asked our waiter for a glass of Prosecco… “What about a dash of fresh peach juice in your Prosecco?” he asked, obviously seeing that the lady was in distress.

And yes, ladies (and gentlemen) a great Bellini cocktail can definitely lift your spirits. I have tasted the Bellini cocktail at its birthplace, the famous Harry’s bar in Venice, and I can say truly that the one at Bond & Brook is far better.

The Bellinis and our talk about clothes, shopping and a tiny bit of politics made my hair disaster seem ridiculous (I could go to the salon again tomorrow, right?).

Like proper ladies who lunch we ordered three small tapas plates to share for our starters: grilled squid with chilli and spring onions, artichokes with goats’ curd and mint and well, not so ladylike, the Hoisin pork belly with Napa cabbage (three tapas plates for £16.00 or £6.25 each).

“The artichokes! Well, that was the triumph!” declared Veronica, also very much impressed by the pork belly and its crispy crackling, which, even in the best of the best restaurants, is often lacking in crispness. I fell in love with the squid and its great smoky flavours enhanced by the spice of the chillies.

We both ordered the sea bass L’Oriental with ginger and soy on a bed of leafy greens (£18) and new potatoes for our mains. And, well, that was truly amazing. I really hate bland sea bass, which is often the case in more traditional restaurants, where they expect you to relish in the taste of the fish and sea – here, I loved the saltiness, the ginger hit and the crispiness of the dish, and cleaned my plate with excitement.

I was very impressed with Veronica’s reaction, because she always complains about food and has a long list of unacceptable foods:  red meats, eggs and parsley are among the foods that she hates with the kind of passion a hard working drama student could only dream of mustering.  “It is hard to find fault with this restaurant, I usually have much more to criticise” she said.

To finish our lunch we asked for coffee and Veronica went for the ‘skinny girl’s desert’ – mango and coconut sorbet (£1.50 / scoop) and I went for the full fat chocolate fondant served with light cream mousse and prunes (for better digestion, I suppose…). No need to mention here which desert tasted (much, much) better.

The restaurant’s menu offered plenty of choice from breakfast (tomatoes on toast and Croque Mademoiselle) to more tapas, set menus, afternoon tea options and other great cocktails.

The Bond & Brook restaurant is the result of collaboration between “Rhubarb” caterers and the Evening Standard’s food critic, Fay Maschler’s restaurant consultancy. Its ex-Le Cafe Anglais chef, Daniel Taylor, won the Malton Chef challenge this month and will be heading there with his £10,000 investment prize to help him open his own restaurant.

But for me, tucked away in the ladies’ department on the second floor at Fenwick, Bond & Brook’s white and elegant interior, friendly service and delicious food is a calming oasis away from the Oxford Street madness and irresistible allure of the Mayfair shops. A true all day dining experience for ladies and gentlemen who love to shop and lunch.

Website: www.fenwick.co.uk

Address: 63 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1RQ

Bar Nearby: The Polo Bar at The Westbury or Claridge’s Bar (see below)

Hotel Nearby: Claridge’s is a very short walk away

Bond & Brook on Urbanspoon

Restaurant Guide: The Crown at Bray

Our guest writer, Vilma Darling, continues her culinary tour with a visit to Bray.

The village of Bray near Maidenhead (30 miles west of London) is world famous for hosting The Fat Duck and The Waterside Inn, two of the four three-Michelin-starred restaurants in the UK. Down the road in Littlefield Green, legendary broadcaster Sir Michael Parkinson owns the one-Michelin-star pub, The Royal Oak, so this tiny area in Berkshire has seven Michelin stars in total – more than Manchester, Birmingham, Leeds and Sheffield combined.

But this review is not about one of the award winning restaurants, but about a local pub, that is one of the loveliest and unpretentious eating establishments I’ve visited in a long time. The Crown was bought by Heston Blumenthal earlier this year and he promised to preserve its intimate and local feel. The celebrity chef owns another pub in the village called The Hinds Head and according to the food maestro himself, it has quickly become a culinary destination.

Culinary destination or not, our cosy lunch at The Crown was delicious. Like proper pub-goers we started our meal with pints of larger and tried not to bang our heads on the low-beamed ceilings when standing up (it is a 16th century inn after all).

I had potted duck and grilled bread with cornichons (£6.95) to start, which was a little bit too rich for my taste (and waistline) as the bread was heavily buttered. The potted duck was great, but probably should have been shared by at least two people.

The Brixham mussels in white wine sauce with garlic and parsley (£8.25) had an excellent broth, but could also have been shared with another person.

I decided to continue the ‘potted’ theme of my lunch and ordered lemon sole with potted shrimp, cucumber & dill (£17.50) for the main course while my companions unanimously went for baked suet, steak and ale pie with creamed potatoes (£14.50).

The lemon sole was fresh, juicy and rather large, and I particularly enjoyed the touch of dill, but I couldn’t finish the fish after my feast of potted duck. We didn’t have any desserts though were very tempted by the Eton Mess with bananas, lime and hazelnuts (£5.75).

Apart from the food, one of the best things about The Crown was the cosy atmosphere created by the beautiful furniture, open fires and incredibly friendly staff. There’s a fine line between being helpful and annoying, but our beautiful waitresses seemed genuinely lovely and happy.

We didn’t really feel like leaving The Crown at all and probably would have stayed there until supper, but we HAD to go for a walk and experience the joys of country living for at least one short weekend.

Website: www.thecrownatbray.com

Address: The Crown, High Street, Bray, Berkshire, SL6 2AH
The Crown at Bray on Urbanspoon

Restaurant Guide: Casa Malevo Restaurant Review

Welcome to the first post by our guest writer Vilma Darling, who recounts her visit to Casa Malevo, a new Argentine restaurant in the Connaught Village.

I’m not a big lover of red meat, so before I went to Argentina a few years ago, I had probably only eaten steak once or twice in my life. In Argentina I ate it for lunch, dinner and sometimes for breakfast too… Who can argue that together with tango and Evita Peron, Argentinians are most famous for their steaks? They take this dish very seriously and I witnessed the laborious process of choosing the meat, roasting it for hours and then distributing by the patriarch of the family.

So imagine my joy when I heard that an Argentine restaurant was opening in London (not the first one of course, but one more is always welcome)! Casa Malevo in the Connaught Village promised to bring the essence of Argentine culture, food and wines, so I awaited the launch with big expectations.

Casa Malevo is the joint venture by Chef Diego Jacquet, who worked for elBulli in Spain and Aquavit in New York, and restaurateur Alberto Abbate, both from Argentina. We visited the restaurant the first day it opened, so there was a slight feeling of panic in the air – the manager was running around, waiters were sweating and the barman looked overwhelmed by requests.

The interior of Casa Malevo is cosy and charming with lovely and tasteful decorations that look like they were brought straight from Argentina (I hope) and that reminded me of the family house where I stayed in the province of Tucuman.

We had to wait for our table for quite some time and had no other choice but to sample some of the seven varieties of my favourite Malbec grape wines. Gouguenheim “Valle Escondido” 2008 was the cheapest at £6.00 for a glass and £22.50 for a bottle. The nicest one was Septimo Dia 2007 at £29.50 per bottle. When slightly tipsy we finally sat at our table and we ordered Urano 2007 Eral Bravo (£25.50 per bottle).

I ordered chorizo on toast with grilled peppers, wild rocket and Chimichurri (green Argentine sauce) as a starter, which was followed, of course, by a sirloin steak (300gr/£19.50). My starter was good, but not excellent, the steak was fabulous and the dulce de leche crème brulee with ice cream was absolutely amazing.

Our taste buds might have been slightly numbed by all the Malbec we had, but Casa Malevo brought back the memories of Argentina and once again reminded me how much I want to go back to that great country. My wish was definitely strengthened by the horrible weather that greeted us leaving the restaurant on a cold and wet London night.

Website: www.casamalevo.com

Address: 23 Connaught Street, London W2 2AY

Bar Nearby: The Portman, 51 Upper Berkeley Street, W1H 7QW

Hotel Nearby: The Arch London, 50 Great Cumberland Place, W1H 7FD

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