*Canvas by Michael Riemenschneider has now closed*
Canvas by Michael Riemenschneider is a new fine dining restaurant set just off pretty Wilbraham Place, a stone’s throw from Sloane Square where bars of golden light that spell out the restaurant’s name cling to the establishment’s external, ornate black railings.
Downstairs, diners are greeted by a sleek interior of angular black lines, swathes of flowing white drapes that act as soft room dividers, red leather backed chairs, pristinely-laid tablecloths and large mirrors that flank the crown of this open-plan room’s ceiling.
At the wooden topped bar that slides along one side of the room, diners can kick off with a glass of house Theinot Champagne, or a signature cocktail such as a Gold Aviation, Champagne Mojito, or perhaps a Negroni Spagliato – something that appealed to my inner italophile.
Canvas by Michael Riemenschneider here in Chelsea is a 65 cover reincarnation of the original Canvas that from January of this year inhabited another corner of the city in Marylebone.
The original premises, a twenty seat restaurant, took off so well that it soon became too small to meet demand.
Welcome then this place, with a classy ambience offering a thoroughly enjoyable gastronomic experience where you can ‘build your own’ tasting menu with portions plated according to the number of dishes you choose.
From one to sixteen, the cuisine on offer proves a baton of culinary freedom for the most discerning where the outcome remains a choice that is almost infinitely yours.
Against a background of happy, pleasant chatter, marking this place out as sophisticated, inviting and not at all stuffy, dishes are revealed from the kitchen one by one.
First to the table for us this evening was a mushroom cappuccino, still one of the most exquisite and memorable fine dining dishes I’ve tried – a taste explosion based on serious stock and laced with Armagnac-infused flavour.
Subsequent dishes included smoked salmon with apple purée – a fine combination of incredible texture, and halibut paired with a very fine Montee de Tonnerre Chablis Premier Cru Chardonnay that proffered delicious unoaked minerality.
This happy selection of unique wines, well chosen by resident sommelier Alis Jusic continued with a mighty interesting, Eroica Riesling – made by famous German winemaker Ernie Loosen this time in Washington State – dry with great weight and texture, matching our cod with wild mushrooms beautifully.
A natural Von Klooper blend of Grenache Mouvedre and Syrah ‘and other ancient grapes’ from Caves de Pyrennes followed, coming from Adelaide Hills providing harmonious marriage to the pork and celeriac mash, before a heady closure to the savoury courses with a giant portion of beef cheek and sirloin oxtail mash – incredible – washed down with a fantastic Henri de Villamont Chorey-Les-Beaune Burgundian Pinot Noir.
You’d be well advised to arrive here hungry no matter how many courses you choose. Pudding involved an assemblage of poached plums and strawberry ice cream matched with a Mas Amiel southern French fortified red wine for a final lick of sweetness.
Whilst our six course surprise is unveiled before us, we chat to Swiss-born, blue-jeans clad chef Michael himself, successful yet down to earth, eager to talk about the concept, our wider interests and of course to hear our feedback.
Michael who also runs The Black Boys Inn near Henley on Thames, commutes in from Bray each day, the village in which Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck is located – a place in which he also undertook much training.
He has an impressive CV, also having worked in Paris under the guise of Pierre Gagnaire and more recently at Gordon Ramsay’s Royal Hospital Road. It must be exciting to see his name against this latest venture; a creation of happy hedonistic gourmet pleasure.
The only downside to this great place is the lack of phone signal (for being located in a basement) – but then perhaps that’s a blessing in disguise? For the decisive this is flexible, fabulous, delicious and sophisticated. I can’t go back again soon enough.
Canvas by Michael Riemenschneider is open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-11pm. Five course menu from £65pp. Menu surprise £70pp plus classic wine collection £65pp (6 courses).
If you enjoyed this review, read our other recent features including MARCUS at The Berkeley and Picture Restaurant in Fitzrovia.
Disclaimer: Sophie was invited to try Canvas by Michael Riemenschneider for the purposes of this review. View our editorial policy here.
