Walking down Gloucester Avenue in Primrose Hill on a quiet evening I blinked too fast and walked right past my destination…twice. The destination is Michael Nadra Primrose Hill, the chef patron’s second self-titled location.
The restaurant sits across the street where Gloucester Avenue and Princess Road meet and if not for a small sign directing you down a descending walkway, you would not know it was there.
Michael Nadra Primrose Hill sits tucked away, below street level and parallel with the canal. Inside, the space is split into three dining rooms, including a brown cobbled tunnel previously used as part of the canal, a small bar area and a breezy garden terrace.
The vibe is cozy with the dim lights, long fireplace and soft whispers of other diners who have also been lucky enough to discover the spot.
Not straying from what made his first location in Chiswick so successful, the overall tone is focused on classic cuisine with full flavour. With pages of menu options including tempura, ceviche and tasting menus, it is a mouth-watering mission to order – nothing some Italian wine and a rich curry amuse-bouche can’t help along though.
Our starters, Black Tiger Prawn dumplings and Roast Sirlion with burrata are as colourful as they are flavourful. The dumplings come in a bright spinach and broccoli veloute and are cooked to perfection so they melt in your mouth. The consistency of the Sirloin with the burrata is interesting at first but quickly forgotten once you get the rush of flavour from the pairing.
Our main dishes arrive, a little later than expected, but is again not something a little Italian wine can’t fix. I’ve ordered the Scotch fillet steak that comes with the most delicious truffle mash I may have ever had (sorry mum).
The steak is cooked well and once again, bursting with flavour. My guest’s chicken with coco de paimpol is a light comparison both visually and taste wise, but delightful none the less.
Dessert comes in the form of a thick Chocolate Fondant mold that spills rich salted caramel and chocolate when broken open. It is impeccably rich and definitely best for sharing.
There’s a lot to like at Michael Nadra Primrose Hill. The presentation isn’t fussy and the focus is on really flavourful and classic tastes. While the time between courses was longer than we would have liked, I am told by Michael himself that he believes every dish should leave the kitchen perfect, even if it takes longer.
So if you’re willing to sacrifice a little time for that perfectly cooked steak, you’ll forgive him…I certainly have.
The Concierge’s Tip: Michael Nadra Primrose Hill hosts a popular weekend brunch from 11am to 2pm every Saturday and Sunday The garden terrace (below) is the perfect way to spend the afternoon before or after walking along the canal.
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