When I received an invitation to dine at The New Angel restaurant in Notting Hill, the first thing I did was Google the menu. The first thing my guest Gabriel did was Google its chef, John Burton-Race.

I delighted at the French influenced, contemporary European food and wanted to try most of the dishes on the menu, while my friend entertained himself with a much more exciting read.

Indeed, as The Independent’s John Walsh put it, the Michelin-starred chef is ‘less well known for his cooking than for his tendency to get himself in the soup’.

John Burton-Race was awarded two Michelin stars at L’Ortolan in Berkshire and then another two at John Burton-Race Restaurant at the Landmark Hotel in London.

But it was the drama of his by-then estranged-wife Kim closing their one-Michelin-starred restaurant in Dartmouth called The New Angel while the chef was in the Australian jungle appearing on ITV’s I’m a Celebrity, Get me Out of Here! that brought him the most unwanted attention.

Two months after the closure the chef declared himself bankrupt.

Having been made into a household name by Channel 4 series French Leave and Return of the Chef in the early 2000s, Burton-Race continued his TV and consultancy work, but it took him four and a half years to come back to the restaurant scene.

The New Angel restaurant – this time not in Devon, but in the heart of Notting Hill – opened last year in a converted Victorian pub at 39 Chepstow Place.

I remember visiting a pretty dull pub in exactly the same location years ago and then a much more exciting but overpriced Georgian restaurant named Colchis.

The layout and the interior of The New Angel hasn’t changed much since Colchis, and when we arrive for our dinner, my friend and I are not convinced about the beauty of some of its elements.

Thankfully, the Champagne trolley near the reception desk at the front is one very welcome adjustment. We are met by a very friendly manager and head sommelier Csaba Adamy and make use of that Champagne trolley at the first mention of a word ‘drink’.

John Burton-Race is the chef patron at The New Angel and his protégé Stephen Humphries is the Head Chef. We are told that Stephen’s dishes showcase a classically French technique that’s innovative through interesting combinations and flavours.

To test this, I order a Carpaccio of Dutch Veal, Smoked Sturgeon, Frozen Foie Gras and Oscietra Caviar Salt. Together with a glass of Chateau Rahoul Graves, Bordeaux 2012, my starter is delightful and rather exotic.

My guest enjoys a Roast Loin of Rabbit, Saba Glazed Shimeji Mushrooms with Seaweed and Toasted Peanut Dressing while sipping on Anton Bauer Rosenberg, Austria 2013. Gabriel’s choice is interesting too, but when I try a bite, it doesn’t have the same excitement as mine.

I have the same opinion about our main courses – I’m very pleased with my choice of Canon of Southwest Lamb, Goats Cheese Lasagne, Truffled Sprouting Broccoli and Spring Garlic. The meat is succulent and very tasty.

The lasagne is filing and pretty special and goes perfectly with a glass of Rosi Schuster Blaufränkisch 2012, Burgenland Austria.

My guest has the Glazed Veal Sweetbreads, Morels, Feves, Romaine Lettuce and Almond Foam combined with Les Merances Anjou Rouge Chateau de la Roulerie 2011 France.

For dessert we share a Dark Chocolate Delice, Sesame Seed Tuile with Salt Caramel and Malted Barley Ice Cream as well as Madagascan Vanilla Crème brûlée, Guava Purée, Cardamom Ice Cream with Mandarin Jelly and Sorbet.

Service is impeccable and the food is delicious and worthy of the price (2 courses £46; 3 courses £56).

However, on the day of our visit The New Angel is lacking a bit of an atmosphere. We decide to come back soon to check on that, because it’s a good place to treat yourself to some delightful fine dining and good wine.

Read some of Vilma’s other restaurant reviews including M Raw in The City and Toto’s in Knightsbridge. Sign up to The Bon Vivant Journal here.

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