To start things off, this was absolutely one of the most impressive meals I have ever had. The Square restaurant has been an unfaltering staple for those looking for a special occasion since it opened in 1991, and it has held two Michelin stars since 1998; an undeniably impressive record.
It is surely largely down to its committed and brilliant leader, Phil Howard, who has been on board since its conception.
There are things that I didn’t love about this restaurant like the quiet and staid dining room; and the Sommelier, who matched some dishes extraordinarily successfully, was at times difficult to hear, but these quickly paled into insignificance as everything else was pretty much faultless.
We opted for the tasting menu that serves guests nine courses of absolute gastronomic delight. The reason The Square is so good is not just the delivery of great individual dishes, but because Howard’s signature is omnipresent through every bite.
By the end of the meal you feel as though you’d recognise his food forever more, and that is an exceptional talent. To make each dish superb in its own right is an enjoyable experience, but it is Howard’s skill that really creates this story-telling, accumulative menu.
Howard is famed for his proper sourcing and seriously good ingredients, and this sings on the menu. Tasting familiar ingredients in a new light is a joy, and asparagus, which cropped up a few times on the menu, was an example of such exceptional quality. (The menu changes with the seasons – click here for the latest version).
Howard’s signature plate, the Sautéed Scottish Langoustine tails with Parmesan gnocchi is a must-try and appears on both the tasting and a la carte. It is an outstanding dish I would happily recount all day long as it demonstrated the lightness of touch, and the creativity with ingredients, which makes The Square so special.
Go to The Square as soon as you can. Don’t expect a raucous night out, but do expect a beautiful meal and do expect to fall completely head over heels.
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